Goa and Kerala

Goa

Touching down in Goa from Jaipur and the Golden Triangle tour, we somehow survived a two-hour taxi journey from the airport, and finally arrived at Palolem Beach. As we dropped our bags in the room, we instantly felt our shoulders drop and unwind to the natural soothing sound of the waves. There's just nothing like it, especially after our whirlwind tour of India that somehow crammed a lifetime of chaos into just eight days (seriously, only eight days?!).

We've been joined on our last leg of this India adventure by Dan's brother, Connor, our sister-in-law Elena, and their son, four-year-old Ziggy. After a bumpy start with a delay in Connor's visa and him being sent back home from Heathrow, we've finally reunited and have been together for almost two weeks. It's been absolutely AMAZING! The toughest part of this trip, by far, has been missing family (and dogs!!!!!), so having this special crew with us has been a real treat. We've shared so many hilarious moments that will glue us together for eternity. We feel incredibly lucky they were able to come out and join our circus!

I'm not quite sure how much content this post will have. Even calling it "Goa" feels a bit of a stretch as we've not set foot outside Palolem Beach. Apart from one effort at a beach run by Dan, the most we've walked has been about five hundred metres along to the market shops, restaurants and our favourite smoothie cafe. For the first time ever, we're staying in a hotel that's right on the beach, with just thirty steps separating our bedroom from the loungers on the sand. It's given us the freedom to all move effortlessly between the beach, the bar, and our rooms. We've all slipped into a wonderfully relaxed rhythm, spending entire days lounging on the beach, snoozing, reading and getting hilariously tossed around by the waves. Phoebe has pulled off her classic ADHD move, devouring two books with her incredible hyperfocus. Meanwhile, Floss has taken on the task of feeding each pack along the beach daily with dog biscuits she bought from the shop. Every pup has been given a fun new name from the girls, like Grandma Chippany, Sandy, Yousef, Quinn, and Sandy number 2 — the list just keeps growing! Floss absolutely loves caring for them every day, and the others jump in to help and join the fun whenever they feel like it, too. 

Pops, Fin and Ziggy have been happy little beach bandits, constantly in and out of the waves, digging holes in the sand, gathering coconuts, and building secret bases. They've been making friends with the hotel staff (and sneaking coca-colas). Dan and Con rent mopeds to explore a bit more of the island, coming back saying it's all "same, same, but different", which we take as we're too lazy to leave our comfy bubble! Elena and I have been catching up on all the juicy goss from the last eight months. We've all shared breakfasts every morning and dinners every night, and falling asleep and waking up to the sound of waves is our new definition of bliss. Every day at 4pm, we dive into a delightful ritual of cake and chai tea, and trust us, we haven't skipped a single session! These cakes are lovingly whipped up by the owner's sister, each bursting with authentic Goan flavour. 

Floss turned thirteen on the 5th (hasn't she been a teenager for a decade already?). She kicked off her super chill birthday with breakfast at her favourite spot for fruity pancakes, fed her packs on the beach, and wrapped things up with a sunset canoe paddle. The luckiest thirteen year old and the most perfect laid-back birthday celebrations!

So to sum up, besides floating around with the kids in a rubber ring, or a couple of canoe sunset trips, we really haven't done much else! Honestly, it's all been the epitome of perfection, especially sharing it all with family — if anyone's in the market for a beach and chill getaway, I'd definitely give Palolem Beach in South Goa a glowing thumbs-up!

Kerala

I think all of this was gearing us up for our exhilarating whirlwind tour of Kerala! Gone were the beachy chill vibes, as we checked ourselves into a 10-bed hostel room right next to Goa train station, bracing for a 5am departure. The soothing sounds of the waves were replaced by a rebellious A/C unit, nine adventurous souls sleeping on bunk beds, a shower cubicle that none of us even dared test for hot water, and one toilet for all of us to bond over. Thankfully, the alarm woke us up at 4am, ready for our epic fourteen-hour train journey to Kerala, said to be an absolute must for the ultimate Indian “experience”!

Goa train station at 5am!

After seeing pictures and videos of these trains, with people riding on the roofs and hanging out the open doors, we were a little bit nervous about how it would all pan out. Especially since Mr. Singh (you remember him, right?), who helped us book while we were in Delhi, assured us that although we might not have assigned seats or beds, Indians are very understanding about noticing you're a family with kids and will happily swap and change at the time. So there we were, trying to act all chill in front of the kids, while internally freaking out about who we might end up bunking with. To our delight, we scored a whole little area to ourselves in a relatively quiet carriage — two sets of three-bed bunks side by side, and an extra two beds across the aisle. Phew!

As we bravely stripped the beds of the previous passengers' bedding, unsure if we would receive replacements, we all happily settled in, excited at what adventure awaited! I'm pleased to report that the service we received throughout the journey was a very pleasant surprise. Shortly after boarding, the old bedding was whisked away, and we were provided with fresh, clean bedding. There was a never-ending and generous supply of food—breakfast, lunch, snacks, and dinner all served, plus an endless flow of chai. The fourteen hours actually flew by relatively comfortably. We witnessed both sunrise and sunset from the train. We snoozed, chatted, read books, played games, watched films, did henna. I can confirm there were no passengers on the roof, although we couldn't resist snapping a few iconic photos of ourselves hanging out of the doors. And yes, it was definitely an “experience” we will cherish forever. We're all so glad we did it instead of chickening out!

We stumbled off the train into the dusty twilight of Kochin station, dodging a swarm of eager taxi and tuktuk drivers, and opted for a fifteen-minute trek to the hotel with our bags in tow in a small attempt at moving our cramped up bodies. The hotel was like a little gift from heaven after our night in the hostel; we tossed our bags inside, took separate, clean, warm showers, and vanished into the fluffy, cloud-like white sheets, ready to be scooped up by our new driver, Ratheesh, and our mini bus of fun for the next three days, at the ungodly hour (for Ziggy) of 9am.

Our first pit stop on the whirlwind tour of Kerala was to Alleppey, where we hopped aboard a houseboat. This floating palace was a non-negotiable on our Kerala bucket list, offering a once-in-a-lifetime cruise through the backwaters. We got to peek into traditional villages and spy on locals who call these waters home; washing clothes, dishes and even themselves in the river. Onboard, we had our very own chef whipping up lunch upon arrival, followed by dinner, and breakfast the next morning, all made from the freshest local goodies and traditional Kerala fare. One of our pit stops was a fish market, where we picked out the biggest king prawns we've ever seen, and handed them over to the chef for a gourmet transformation. Life slowed to a delightful crawl as we floated past tranquil scenes of rice paddies and swaying palm trees, making it completely impossible in the heat to resist the call of a nap on the top deck while trying to soak it all in.

The houseboat offered us to visit a local spa centre along the water for an Ayurvedic treatment. Now, this was a new term for us, but we were game to give it a whirl. The girls were up for it too, so Elena, Pheebs, Floss, and I all hopped off, ready to unwind. Well, let me tell you, it was quite the experience — still debating if it was a good one! Picture this: instead of a UK spa, we each got escorted into what looked like a hospital room, complete with a bed wrapped in thick plastic sheeting. Lights blazing, no relaxing tunes in sight. They used oil like it was going out of style, which we've now learnt is what it's all about. It all wrapped up with a herbal "bath," which meant standing in the shower while being scrubbed down with a bar of soap — haven't felt that squeaky clean since my mum bathed me! Once we were back on the boat, sharing our tales of the bizarre, I found out Floss had bailed halfway through - it definitely wasn't for her! Good on her, I think, for being brave enough to say, thanks but no thanks, and get out politely. We were all in stitches, recounting our stories — definitely a "memorable" moment we'll laugh about for years. It did something to relax us and boost our well-being, though probably not in the way it was meant to! 

Back on board, it’s time for a lively mini disco before our incredible Keralan dinner is served. We dive into card games, share stories on deck, and eventually call it a night. We've all decided to rise early for the sunrise over the backwaters tomorrow—and I'm so glad we did! Sitting on the top deck, soaking in the peace and tranquility of the backwaters, with the gentle sounds of local life around us, was truly magical. We enjoy a delightful local breakfast and set out for another morning cruise, before jumping off and bidding farewell to the wonderful crew onboard, ready for the next adventure!

This time, we're all set for Munnar, the amazing home of incredible tea plantations — an absolute must-see for us tea lovers! Nestled in the Western Ghats, Munnar boasts jaw-dropping views of mist-covered mountain peaks and valleys. After leaving the boat at 9am, we finally arrive at our home-stay around 4pm, surrounded by these stunning vistas. What a perfect place to unwind — if only we had the time! But there's no rest for the adventurous. After a long journey, the kids (and Uncle Connor) quickly dive into the pool before our host suggests we catch a Kathakali and Kalaripayattu show. With a longing backwards glance at the pool, hammocks, and the serene surroundings, we decide, “in for a penny, in for a pound.” We know we have to experience it while we're here, so we all jump back in with Ratheesh to take us to the local show.

The show bursts into action with Kalaripayattu, the traditional martial art of Kerala, celebrated as the oldest form of combat and self-defense in the world. It felt like we stumbled into a school play with props made in art class, but it was surprisingly impressive, and the kids were all over it, with little Zigs even getting up on the stage as part of the show at one point too. After a quick shuffle with our seats, we settled in for the next installment of Kathakali—a classic dance drama famous for its elaborate costumes, makeup, and over-the-top gestures. The first performer did not disappoint! His facial and eye gymnastics had us in stitches, but we were also genuinely impressed. It was fantastic to see their culture come alive. We left, made a pit stop at Ratheesh’s friend's restaurant, and finally flopped onto our beds by 10:30 pm for some much-needed chill time (I think my face and whole energy in that group pic at the end of the night explains everything!).

After hitting the snooze button a few times, we finally rolled out of bed for a slightly later start at 10am, ready for another full days drive back to Kochi. For our last day together, our trusty guide, Ratheesh, was ready to whisk us away to the land of tea dreams — India's famous tea plantations. We had grand visions of touring a factory and frolicking among the tea leaves, but alas, time was not on our side. So, we settled for a quick peek from a scenic viewpoint. It was still a sight to behold (if you ignored the litter all over the side of the road), much like the rice paddies we've ogled around the globe. Fingers crossed we'll get another shot at our tea plantation fantasies when we hit Sri Lanka!

On our way back to Kochi, Ratheesh excitedly suggests a stop at an Ayurveda garden, urging us all to join in, as he's already covered the entrance fee. He emphasises how this is a vital part of Indian history and culture, as important as learning about the tea. We all jump out of the car and are warmly welcomed by a guide who leads us through the garden, passionately explaining each plant and its medicinal wonders. This holistic system of medicine and lifestyle, which began in India over three thousand years ago, aims to use plants to boost health, ward off disease, restore balance to the body and mind, and nurture mental and spiritual harmony. Let’s be honest, our family could use a little bit of that magic! I’m now thinking of buying a book on Ayurvedic plants so we can start our own back garden pharmacy. Just another addition to our ever-growing list of home projects!

Off we go for a couple more hours before hitting the brakes for dinner and our “last supper” together! Seriously, where did the time go? It feels like we just blinked and now it’s all wrapping up. Hanging out with Connor, Elena, and Ziggy has been an absolute blast, the perfect way to wind down our trip. It's been incredibly special and such a privilege to share so many hilarious memories together. We roll up to our hotel and have a teary-eyed goodbye. But hey, it’s not really goodbye — it’s a “see you in a few weeks” now. We wave them off as they head to the airport and we head on into our hotel for the next two nights to turn around, catch up with ourselves after the little whirlwind the last few days have been, and get some serious washing done!!

Well, we've hit the finish line of our incredible three-week rollercoaster ride through India! From the north to the south, we've explored eight unique regions, each bursting with its own character yet united by the rich tapestry of Indian culture. Everywhere we went, we were met with the warmest welcomes, complete celebrity status, and a deep sense of pride from the locals. Despite being in the minority, we never felt like we were in danger, and have been looked after impeccably throughout. This journey has been another transformative chapter for us - I think it’s impossible to leave India unchanged - and we are now full of new insights and experiences that we'll remember forever. From the chaos of our first night landing in Delhi to the serene, lush (albeit brief) embrace of our final days in Munnar, the contrasts couldn't be bigger. India can definitely be described as a land of vibrant extremes - some parts are challenging to witness, while others are simply beautiful. It’s been the hardest place for me to describe - my brain has finally stopped spinning enough to let me write and share my thoughts again - what a relief! I thought I'd lost it there for a bit. It is undoubtedly the craziest place we have ever visited, with every single moment offering something new and exciting, keeping our minds buzzing constantly. We've loved every second and are leaving with a little piece of the country glued to our hearts. As Dan said in his first India blog, everyone should experience this madness at least once in their lifetime! I'm so glad we have, and fingers crossed, we'll be back for another round!