Vietnam
Let me kick this post off by saying we've just had our biggest travel hiccup yet! As I mentioned in the last entry, unexpected stress from home has snuck into our lives like an uninvited guest, and it’s been wreaking havoc on the whole family. The stress has been oozing out and changing the feel of our family adventures. Naturally, the kids have been like little emotional sponges, sensing the change in mood happening around them and soaking up all the drama. Phoebe, in particular, was catching on to our unease, making her feel more off balance and more eager than ever to bolt home. We've all been tiptoeing on an emotional tightrope since we left the jungle, and it all came tumbling out in a big, very frank and open, no-holds-barred chat on our first day in Hanoi. We put all our cards on the table, with the main question ultimately being: is it time to pack up and head back home?
We laid out all the pros and cons of continuing our adventure versus heading back home to face what reality awaits us - work, education (whatever that means these days), family, friends, dogs, the gym (Lord knows I need it), the daily grind, etc etc. We each took turns letting everything out, sharing concerns and airing our worries. As Dan pointed out in his blog, we're always caught in a mild battle of heart vs head, but this time our heads had well and truly hijacked the ship.
As I've talked about before, we're planning to somehow print this blog for the kids when we get back, so they have got their own keepsake to reminisce about this adventure when they are adults. I hope it will be helpful to realise we didn't have all the answers, in fact we were just completely winging it! But actually, even having the opportunity for all of us to cooperate, talk, and truly listen to one another, with each of us being 100% present, has been wonderful and a really important part of this journey. We are facing all sorts of challenges that are making us question what we're doing, and we're embracing them while hugging each other tight, and learning so much about ourselves and each other along the way.. Dan, in his infinite wisdom, put it perfectly during the big chat: why on earth would he want to cut the trip short when he's getting to spend time with his kids every single day and us all be together as a family? This is such an incredible gift of time and a huge privilege. Which is probably exactly why this feels so frustrating and we feel completely knocked sideways!
We finally came to the conclusion that right now, all our hearts are shouting in unison that this journey is the way to go, regardless of what reality awaits us at home, we all want to finish the route we had initially planned. So, after brainstorming some extra strategies to help us handle the ups and downs, we've unanimously decided to, of course, continue travelling! If it all goes sideways, at least we have a treasure trove of hilarious stories from every place we’ve stumbled upon that will make us laugh for our lifetimes.
Now, it's seriously time to stop stressing and start making more crazy memories with the time we have left!
And wow, Vietnam! What can I say? It has well and truly pulled us out of whatever funk we were feeling and thrown us fully into it’s culture without a second to pause and look back - exactly what we needed!
First on the agenda: surviving a massive temperature nosedive! Dropping to the low teens felt like we were suddenly living in an igloo, especially after basking in thirty-plus degrees since November! Thankfully, Hanoi’s market stalls have more fake Patagonia and North Face gear than you can shake a stick at. And it's absolutely hilarious to see every single person in Hanoi decked out from head to toe in them. After our first day of shivering in denial, we realised we needed to stuff our backpacks with those stylish knock-offs pronto - we were absolutely freezing!
We were expecting a whole new culture, but nothing could have prepared us for being thrust into the heart of the Old Quarter in Hanoi! Imagine no pavements, motorbikes and cars ruling over pedestrians, an orchestra of honking from dawn to midnight, narrow streets, tuk tuks galore, just pure and utter madness — and a whirlwind of overstimulation! If Phoebe wasn’t already eyeing the next flight home, she definitely was now! Wandering around any city can be a challenge with all six of us bimbling together, but in a place like this, it was wild. We plopped down in a bar amidst all the chaos and soaked it all in. It was the perfect spot with the most hilarious owner, "Dragon" (not sure if that's his real name!), who helped us all settle down and let our nervous systems gradually return to normal. Thankfully, I can now say, after three days in Hanoi, we have completely fallen in love with the place and the beauty around every chaotic corner.
Our first trip was hopping into a vintage army jeep for a half-day Hanoi sightseeing, food, and culture tour. It was the ultimate way to dive into the heart of Hanoi, all thanks to our lively and passionate tour guide, Bee. The best history lesson I've ever had! Arriving with very little knowledge of Vietnam's history, our minds were absolutely blown away by the incredible stories of what this country has endured, its struggles, and the remarkable resilience of its people. Despite a history marked by hardship and complexity, the Vietnamese exude nothing but peace and kindness towards everyone. Bee shared with us that although the wars are in the past, they remain a recent chapter in Vietnam's history, which is why there is still mandatory military service for all males aged 18 to 25, typically lasting two years. She also shared that girls have to go through a month of military training, and she has proudly completed it, meaning she knows how to shoot a gun and whatever else is needed. We were all laughing together imagining Phoebe practising how to throw a grenade! It really makes you wonder, how would the UK young civilians react if faced with a similar situation?
Once again, we were inspired by the family set ups we encountered. We were taken on a journey through local homes and communities, where we saw firsthand how all generations of a family live, work, and support each other at every stage of life. We all love seeing this interdependence and cohesiveness of the family unit.
Bee took us to the legendary Train Street, a thrillingly narrow historic train track laid by the French in 1902 and still running the Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City route today. Local residents living in the houses on either side casually sit on the tracks, sipping tea and playing checkers. Charming local cafes serve drinks to eager tourists like us. As the train approaches, everyone swiftly gathers their belongings, stools, bikes and children - and tourists - pressing close to the wall. Thank goodness, because the train zoomed by much faster than we had anticipated, and we all stepped back just in time! I asked Bee if there had ever been any injuries or casualties, and amazingly her answer was no. Just like when I asked her about road mishaps. Somehow, everyone survives these wild, no health-and-safety-rule zones unscathed! We were all thrilled we got to enjoy our hot chocolates at just the perfect moment.
And let's not forget the incredible food and drink. With Vietnam being renowned for its food culture we made some amazing pit stops along the way, and I’m pleased to report not a single chicken nugget in sight! From egg coffees to banh mi, onto salt coffees and bun cha. Seriously, don’t dismiss the egg and salt coffees until you’ve given them a shot. This truly was an amazing and interesting culture and history tour with a delightful side of spring rolls!
This little appetiser of history led us to visit Hoa Lo Prison the next day. As I said, arriving with very little knowledge of Vietnamese history, this visit with the audio tour really opened our eyes. We discovered this prison was originally called Maison Centrale and used by French colonists to detain Vietnamese prisoners, especially the brave political prisoners fighting for independence. The stories of the torture they endured were shocking, often ending in execution. Their suffering was immense. We all stood together in front of the memorial monument that has been built to honour all of these Vietnamese patriots and revolutionary fighters and we each lit an incense stick. It was a heartfelt gesture of respect from all of us, sending our wishes to all those who lost their lives in that harrowing place, and we all found it an emotional and moving experience.
The audio tour then took us to the era when the prison was used by North Vietnam to hold U.S. prisoners of war during the Vietnam War. During this time, it was famously nicknamed the “Hanoi Hilton” by the American POWs because of the surprisingly good treatment they received from the Vietnamese prison guards. We found this absolutely remarkable — despite all the hardships they faced during the time they were imprisoned, and the suffering the U.S. had brought to their country, they still managed to show kindness and respect to the individuals who found themselves there. The war facts we were learning were mind-blowing, and they further helped to form our view of the Vietnamese people. They've endured a horrific history and they are the most resilient, kind, and peaceful people we've ever encountered. Learning about their heritage just makes us admire them so much more.
We wrapped up our Hanoi adventure with one last pit stop for salt coffee - seriously, it's like a salted caramel hug in a mug! Then it was back to the hostel, ready to pack up for our journey to Sapa the next morning on the 'thrilling' six to eight hour bus transfer...! I'm flabbergasted to report that the bus trip was fantastic! With cosy little cabins and reclining seats, the kids paired up, and Dan and I had our own little space to relax, everyone kicking back, doing whatever tickled their fancy and enjoyed the ride. A couple of rest stops along the way lets us stretch our legs and grab some snacks, and the journey only took six and a half hours - perfect travel day and nice change compared to flying!
Arriving in Sapa felt like stepping into a whole new world again compared to Hanoi. The quiet, charming Vietnamese mountain town we envisioned was alive with vibrant neon signs and music bursting from every restaurant. As always with us, a bit of adjustment was needed, but we managed to find a quiet, cosy restaurant that felt like being in a mountain ski village, before heading back to our accommodation for our first bath in six months, and the right temperature to enjoy it, we were more than happy! We had a perfect day wandering around and exploring Sapa, famously known as the town in the clouds, and it's so easy to see why!
The next day we swapped the bustling streets of Sapa for the dizzying heights of Mount Fansipan, where we practically danced with the clouds! Standing proudly at 3,143 metres, it's the highest mountain on the Indochinese peninsula, earning its majestic nickname, “the Roof of Indochina”. We'd been dreaming of this moment ever since we saw jaw-dropping pics on insta. Initially, I hoped we could tackle it as another hike, but after some more research online, it became clear that this was an expert-level challenge rather than a family stroll. We've dragged the kids through many wild adventures, but even I hesitated at the thought of these steep ascents and descents. So, we opted for the cable car, gliding from the Muong Hoa Valley directly to Fansipan Mountain, covering an impressive distance of over 6 kilometres. We were cautioned about the temperature and how the weather might obscure the view, but to our delight, the sun graced us with its presence, accompanied by just the right amount of clouds to make this experience truly spectacular. We had a further walk to get to the Great Amitabha Buddha statue - a 21.5 metre bronze statue just below the summit - it was apparently just a mere 600 steps, or 230 metres, and should have taken twenty to thirty minutes tops. But with four kids at that altitude, it felt like we'd hiked the whole mountain! They were troopers though, overcoming multiple "I'm done" moments between them, and the view from the top was an unforgettable reward.
After conquering Fansipan, we set off for our next adventure: Ta Van Village and a local home-stay. At less than £20 a night for all six of us, it was definitely a gamble! But it turned out to be an absolutely incredible experience. We spent three unforgettable nights with Phong and his family who all warmly welcomed us into their lives. Phong shared his vibrant family life with us and introduced us to the diverse ethnic groups in the area. After a couple of challenging encounters with the Black Hmong people in Sapa Town, and feeling caught between two very different cultures and ways of reasoning and communicating, it was wonderful to spend more time getting to know them. Their persistence isn't meant to be harassing, it's simply their only form of income in a rapidly changing world for them. To keep any more friendly persuasion at bay, we ended up buying a little something from each of them, and we wore everything around the village with pride, happily on display!
Phong's main job is as a teacher at the local school, and he enthusiastically invited us in for a tour. It was a massive culture shock and incredibly fascinating for us all to witness the differences compared to UK schools. The bunk dorm rooms housing up to twenty girls in each room, definitely providing a cosy nights sleep! A walk through the kitchen and dining hall offered a great perspective on what we have access to in the UK. Phong has two older daughters who are around the same ages as Pheebs and Floss, although they attend a boarding school in the next town, an hour away. He explained that Vietnam provides government-funded boarding schools for ethnic minorities and mountainous regions to ensure equal access to education. We also realised it must be a relief for the family finances not to have to pay for food and other expenses for two extra children every week.
Phong invited us to dinner along with his other homestay guest, where he shared his incredible story of childhood and upbringing with us all. Being the same age as us it was so interesting hearing the contrast between our lives. Growing up with the post-war blues and surrounded by the chaos it left behind, he was raised in a very poor family alongside his three older sisters. He revealed that none of his sisters could read or write, and shockingly, his eldest sister fell in with a seriously wrong crowd and was tragically trafficked to China. We were absolutely stunned to silence — he hasn't seen or heard from her in over twenty years. He shared how determined he was to gain an education to change his path, and how he used to walk an astounding 18 kilometres to school every Sunday, staying there for the week, and then returning home to help out on weekends. 18 kilometres! Such fascinating insights from a man who has endured so much, offering a fantastic way to truly demonstrate to the kids the value of education.
His eight year old son, Mango, is his ultimate sidekick at home, perfectly teaming up with him to host the home-stays in the afternoons when he’s home from school, taking us on hikes, practising his English, and obviously a match made in heaven playing with Poppy and Fin. They had a blast running around together at the home and in the rice fields during our stay, along with some extra friends who dropped by. Pure bliss for them all. Before booking the home-stay, we read on Phong’s bio that he invites local children to his house on weekends to help them learn English. Mango is so fluent thanks to his teaching, and he extends this amazing opportunity to the Tay community as well. We were all looking forward to joining in and helping contribute to the community in a really small way. However, once we arrived, we discovered that he recently had to pause this wonderful activity because he is also caring for an absolutely adorable seven-month-old baby, who we initially thought was his daughter. Turns out she's actually his niece, and he's looking after her as his sister has been hospitalised with post-natal psychological stress. His willingness to give so much to everyone around him despite having so little is truly inspiring. Honestly, his heart is bigger than a rice field! He's one of those rare, truly special people, and staying in his home, surrounded by the simplicity of the village, witnessing and gaining a firsthand understanding of the adaptability and resilience of the people, with the beauty of the mountains and fields around us, is an experience that will stick with us forever. Plus, Pheebs and Floss were over the moon with the two family dogs, these two tiny lap dogs we definitely aren't used to! The girls became their shadows, whether they wanted it or not!
Next on our North Vietnam adventure, we hopped on another bus, this time heading even further north to tackle the legendary Ha Giang Loop. We had to pick between this or Halong Bay, as time wasn't on our side to do both before moving on. After a rocky start with a bus ride that felt like it was driven by a caffeine-crazed learner driver, and rest stops with toilet facilities that seemed to be inspired by medieval dungeons, I'm thrilled to report that, after some initial doubts, we absolutely made the right choice!
I'm trying hard to work out how to sum up our experience for you. It wasn’t just about the thrill of cruising round in the army jeep together for two days, or the breathtaking route through majestic mountains and lush valleys, or the deep connection with nature and the warmth of the local people. This trip transformed into an emotional adventure and, without exaggerating, it became a true turning point for us as a family. Every twist and turn of the loop is packed with stories and unforgettable moments for us. We became besties with our drivers and tour guide, making pit stops at roadside cafes to share local food with the ethnic groups and soak in the scenery. They whisked us away to a hidden gem of a restaurant where we dared to try local ‘treats’ like sliced pig's ear and beef gelatin (luckily, they threw in a side of fries!!). We had an absolute riot at a home-stay, belting out karaoke tunes and busting dance moves with the local kids, all while digging into a hot-pot and sipping on the legendary “happy water” with their parents. We swam in waterfalls, we high-fived toddlers frolicing freely in the fields, and saw young girls wielding machetes like it was just another Tuesday, ready to help with the crops. We walked through communities with guard dogs seriously ready to attack! Cows were the original tractors, plowing fields, and old women were scaling mountains like they were mountain goats, planting seeds for their meals. We were blown away by how incredibly hard working, resilient, and industrious the local ethnic people were. Seeing where they live and not being able to work out what are homes and what are stables for their animals gave us a small insight into their basic living conditions, all while being greeted by their genuine heartwarming smiles. It has been a glimpse into their world and their strong communities that will be etched into our memories forever. I feel like all the stars aligned for us, knowing what we needed, and created the ultimate adventure.
As we bounced along on the bus back to Hanoi, I decided to dip my toes into the pool of vulnerability and said to the kids and Dan that finishing the loop felt like a life-altering moment for me. To my surprise, their eyes closed and gently nodded in agreement. It turns out, we all shared the same incredible feeling. Definitely one of those "before and after" moments, at exactly the time we needed it.
After surviving another wild night bus journey which unceremoniously dropped us off in Hanoi at the delightful hour of 4am, we were thrilled that we had, 1) already spent three days in Hanoi, and 2) stored our extra luggage at the hostel we had previously stayed in. This meant we knew exactly which streets to sleepwalk to get back to the hostel and since they already knew us and were expecting our return, even though they were fully booked, they graciously let us crash in the common room on the beanbags. Using a medley of scarves and sarongs as our blankets, it allowed us a couple of hours of shut-eye before the rest of the hostel woke up.
In our whirlwind planning, and in a moment of sheer madness, we had booked back-to-back buses, giving us just the daytime at the hostel to regroup before setting off again, this time on a fourteen-hour overnight bus to Hoi An. Luckily, we were all so travel weary from all the bus rides, the recent excitement, and the rustic charm of the homestay beds that we could do nothing but cosy up in the cabins. After a pit stop for dinner, we all conked out for most of the night! The bus kindly deposited us in Hoi An at the more civilised hour of 8am, where we jumped into a Grab to our Airbnb. Fin made an excellent choice picking this one, beautifully tucked along a serene back river path by the Thu Bon River. We tossed our bags into the store area and cannonballed into the pool to freshen up, ready and buzzing with excitement to explore this new slice of Vietnam!
First on the agenda was a spin in a bamboo boat through a coconut village. I wasn't entirely sure about the historical accuracy here, but apparently these boats originated when the French decided to tax fishermen based on their boat sizes. Ingeniously, they crafted these circular shapes and called them baskets to dodge the tax. Regardless of the history, the tour was a colourful tourist trap we couldn't resist! The absolute highlight - hopping onto a stage boat to belt out and bust out moves to Gangnam Style. Totally random and brilliant energy to start our day with!
Next up: lantern making! With Hoi An renowned for its beautiful lanterns illuminating the streets at night, we decided to find somewhere to make our own and use it as a bit of an art / DT lesson. We discovered the amazing Lynn at Lynn’s Lantern Making Class. This incredible woman welcomed our wildly neurodiverse group, who suddenly found themselves sitting down and focusing for two and a half hours for the first time in six months!! It was an epic battle I wasn't convinced we were going to survive - dopamine levels were at an all-time low halfway through, with real tears, tantrums, and a few glue-related distractions (everyone obsessed with covering their hands in the PVA glue!). But guess what? After two and a half hours, I'm thrilled to announce that we have six stunning - if a little imperfect - handmade lanterns to proudly call our own and send home!
We've been having an absolute blast in Hoi An, zipping around on the Airbnb's free bikes and uncovering all the hidden gems of the town and its outskirts. The nights are magical as we cruise through the bustling streets, where only bikes and motorbikes are allowed, creating a unique kind of lively yet serene energy compared to Hanoi, while everywhere comes alive with colourful lanterns. In the day we've been meandering through rice paddy paths, stumbling upon hidden cafes with tranquil views. We pedaled our way to the beach, zoomed past a farmer and his water buffalo, and snapped a spontaneous photo - no more fear of walking past cows on our dog walks now! Hoi An is such a great location, surrounded by mountains, rivers, the sea, and rice paddies and it has a real lively, colourful and joyful atmosphere.
On our last day we set off on our bikes for the last time, planning to return to the Old Town and explore the Precious Heritage Museum, which showcases Vietnam's 54 ethnic groups through stunning photography. But plot twist! As we cruised past a construction site, the girls heard a squeal, and out crawled a tiny puppy from under the fence. We spent twenty minutes on the ground with her, cuddling and playing, until her owner appeared. With surprising insistence, he placed her in our bike basket, urging us to take her, explaining she only got breakfast with him, not the three meals she needed. He had named her Nono, which means sleepy. This is what happens when you follow your heart instead of your head - off we went with a puppy in our basket, working out what to do next!
With our flights set for Ho Chi Minh City and plans to leave at 7am the next morning, we had a busy day ahead - now every moment of our last day was dedicated to a whirlwind of puppy problem-solving! First stop was to the vet for a check-up and advice, and while the vet seemed pretty nonchalant (it must be a common occurrence in Vietnam), we were on a mission. We bought her some kibble and a bowl, joined and contacted various rescue centres, and infiltrated local Facebook groups. Back at our Airbnb, the hosts were surprisingly chill about our furry guest, even offering her a sleepover invite, which was oh-so-helpful in front of the kids — cue the puppy eyes, times five! Although the staff couldn't directly help with rehoming, fate was on our side. Dan had struck up a conversation with a German guy a couple of days earlier after being ‘playfully’ chased by his pack of four little dogs whilst on a run. This was our wild card! Dan dashed over on the trusty bike to find the German guy’s Vietnamese wife at home who, after listening to the very random explanation from a complete stranger, amazingly agreed to take the baton in finding our furry friend a forever family, despite not being able to keep her. The kids were in emotional overdrive, having fallen head over heels for this gorgeous pup and dreaming of bringing her home with us, there were serious waterworks from all four of them. We had heartfelt discussions about the costs and what was best for her, and after more floods of tears, we managed to hand her over to lovely Van, with a promise to stay updated on her journey. As it stands, if she hasn't found a new home in the next three days while we're in HCMC, the kids are all set on heading back to Hoi An! The adventure continues...
And oh, the thrill of arriving in a new place! It always sends us into a whirlwind, questioning if we've made the right choice, no place more so than Ho Chi Minh City!! Imagine London on steroids, with noise, cars, people, and of course, motorbikes everywhere! We hadn't seen proper two-lane roads in ages, so the sight of them packed with vehicles bumper to bumper and towering buildings on either side was an absolute sensory overload. We all had a mini meltdown on our first evening (or was it just me?) after wandering the bustling streets all afternoon, exhausted and overwhelmed. The kids all grabbed a McDonalds (of course) and we finally crawled back home and dove under the covers to see what tomorrow would bring!
Now, of course, after three days in HCMC, we're absolutely delighted we included it in our Vietnam trip. It's been the grand finale we didn't know we needed, wrapping up our adventure and further deepening our understanding of Vietnam's tough history and rich culture.
We started off by booking another jeep tour - since it seems like jeeps and buses are our only mode of transport these days - and made our first pit stop at the iconic Saigon Post Office. Then, we drove into the bustling backstreets, learning how the locals live their everyday lives. We jumped out of the jeep and zigzagged through the alleyways, stopping to indulge in the various street food on offer, including their beloved banh mi. We strolled through housing estates, met friendly locals, admired their homes (and their wild electricity lines), and wandered through the lively flower markets. Once again, we're absolutely in love with the diverse and vibrant culture here. It's different from other areas of Vietnam, but still bursting with that unmistakable Vietnamese spirit of people, community, and connection.
Another place we had to visit here was the Cu Chi Tunnels, where we booked a 6am tour with a guide to take us around the underground labyrinth that Viet Cong soldiers dug during the Vietnam War. It was another fascinating history field-trip for all of us, learning more tales of the wartime to add to the picture we have built in our minds since being here. We explored how these tunnels allowed the soldiers to move underground undetected, also doubling as communication and supply routes, hospitals, kitchens, weapon stores and living quarters for countless North Vietnamese fighters. The kids loved learning about the ingenious bamboo booby traps designed to thwart any enemies if they ventured too close!
Dan and I were offered to shoot a gun - an AK47. Initially, I was hesitant about even holding one, but I'm glad I tried it. It was an eye-opening experience to feel the immense power it possessed firsthand. The sheer force with which the bullet was fired was astonishing, almost bringing me to tears. It's absolutely horrifying to imagine the impact it would have on humans.
Before we left we obviously had to explore the underground tunnels. Floss and Fin made it an impressive twenty metres before needing to come up for air, Dan almost called it quits at forty metres but soldiered on, and the rest of us emerged after the full length of one hundred metres. It's absolutely bonkers to think of these tunnels being used with a war going on above, and that they were longer, deeper and darker, serving as the reality for these soldiers. They've been expanded for us tourists, so imagine them being tinier, narrower, and crawling with ants, venomous centipedes, snakes, scorpions, spiders and rodents. The whole morning was yet another incredibly powerful lesson, giving us a deeper understanding of how these soldiers lived.
We had reached out to the Laws for Paws dog sanctuary while seeking help with Nono, which was conveniently located just twenty minutes from where we were staying in HCMC. We had signed up to volunteer and the timing worked out perfectly after our Cu Chi visit to balance out the war learning and for us to take a break walking the dogs! Chatting with the founder as we walked was really fascinating. Although Laws for Paws is a much smaller organisation compared to Soi Dog, just like them, she was pouring her heart and soul into transforming the lives of the little street dogs in the area. That day, she was handling a rescue mission - a woman had bought and saved twenty four dogs from the meat trade market, and they all urgently needed new homes! This was something we had been anxious about encountering during our time in Vietnam, but thankfully, every dog we've met has been a loved and cherished pet. She passionately expressed her protective feelings towards the Vietnamese and their cultural connection to the dog meat trade. Although it's still legal, this tradition is definitely on the decline, and she emphasized that, even if they aren't cared for by Western standards, these dogs are cherished members of their families. We left after a couple of hours of walking, cuddling and playing and wished her luck with the mission she had ahead of her.
Our final trip on our last day was a visit to the Wartime Museum, where Dan and I, along with the kids, were completely unaware of the emotions we were about to go through. From the outside, it looked like a playground of military might - tanks, jets, missiles, chinooks - oh my! Fin was in awe, and honestly, so were all of us. It's not every day you get to see them up close, and all of our previous Vietnam War history lessons suddenly felt more real, understanding how they had all been used. But nothing could have prepared us for the intense and graphic displays inside. Dan was grateful to take Fin out to shield him as the images were so overwhelming. Poppy stayed with me, along with the older girls, as we carefully navigated through the images and exhibits, shielding her from some of the more intense parts. Despite our prior learning about the Vietnam War, the visuals brought a new, shocking understanding of the atrocities and war crimes committed by the U.S. Army. There were moments I had to pause and breathe deeply to continue guiding the girls through it all. It was vivid, deeply moving, and truly harrowing. Once again, we are in awe of this country's resilience and how they have managed to heal from such profound suffering.
In an extreme way to lighten the load after that heavy experience, the girls' instagram feeds have been full of capybara cafes in HCMC. They had been desperate to visit and after some research, we found one (out of three - obviously the new craze?!) that is a Noah's Ark of sorts, featuring dogs, cats, and capybaras spread out over different floors. We head here after our visit to the War Museum and a couple of hours in the company of these furry friends, stroking them and soaking in all their calm, snoozy vibes, has such a calming effect on us all. Animals are always the best therapists.
On the subject of dogs, let me wrap up with the ending to the saga of our adorable furball, Nono! The kids have been in full-on puppy love mode, determined to bring her back home with us. Floss fully researched all the details, figuring out the injections, blood tests, and the timings and logistics needed to make bringing her home happen. Their generosity was so lovely, with Fin even offering his last 10,000 VND to fund her travel expenses. But alas, we had to draw a line under it all - Van found her a wonderful new home with a friend in Hoi An. All four of the kids were heartbroken but the bright side is that she'll be with a young family, surrounded by children and love. They understand it was the best decision for her, and I'm so proud of them and their big hearts and deep care. I think we're all seriously missing our own dogs now and can't wait to be reunited with them!
Out of all the places we've visited, Vietnam has been the biggest surprise, completely blowing us away! We had the least expectations for this country, yet it has given us so much more than we could have imagined. It's been breathtakingly beautiful, lively, vibrant, and incredibly fascinating to explore and learn about. We've absolutely loved witnessing the older generations sitting together, simply enjoying each other's company on the streets. Floss mentioned it's because they now know peace. Everything we have learned about their history has truly made us appreciate why the simplicity of being together is so vital. They've endured so much. The young generations we've met and spent time with here are brimming with excitement for their future, confident that both the government and the people are united in creating a brighter future. This part of our world trip has been a monumental turning point for us all, transforming our way of thinking and leaving an everlasting impression on our lives.
