Indonesia - Bali

For this leg of the journey, we're embracing spontaneity! After meticulously planning the first four months, with every pit stop and pillow accounted for, we're ready to let loose and go with the flow. We're eager to chat with locals and fellow travellers as we go, gathering tips on where to head to next. While we still have a general route in mind and want to visit the places we initially scribbled down, we're taking a more laid-back approach to booking everything. Let's see how this style suits us!

Our adventure in Indonesia kicks off in Bali, and wow, this is exactly what we've been missing! Talk about a culture explosion the moment we stepped off the plane! 

Thankfully, we had transport lined up with the Airbnb we booked just 48 hours before our departure - I told you we are embracing spontaneity - and it was an absolute blessing after stepping into the bustling chaos of arrivals at Denpasar airport to see a driver holding a sign with our name on it. Having started our journey at Sydney airport this morning at 10am, surviving two flights, and realising that, although it's 9pm local time, it's actually now edging 1am for us, we all zombie-shuffled after our driver, thankful he was leading us through the madness. With our bags loaded in the car, and with a symphony of honking and some gentle nudging and inching forwards, we finally made it onto the road.  

The roads and surrounding architecture here are about as much of a contrast to Sydney as you can get! I can't even begin to work out the scooter-to-car ratio here, but scooters are everywhere and there doesn’t seem to be any lanes!! There are night markets lining the streets, warungs still serving roadside food in the dark, free-roaming stray dogs, and people popping up at the car window to either sell or beg. It was definitely a massive sensory overload we weren't quite prepared for after such a long and tiring day, which resulted with Phoebe in tears and the rest of the crew feeling really overwhelmed. However, this is exactly what Dan and I have been craving! As I mentioned in the last post, we loved the 'holiday' vibe Australia offered, but we are itching to dive back into worldschooling and soak up diverse cultures again, roadside rubbish and all!

After what felt like an eternity in the car, we finally arrived at our Airbnb around 2/3am, still operating on Oz time. We were all feeling completely delirious, but oh, what a choice we made! Our Airbnb is in the famous Green Village, perched right on the Ayung river and surrounded by the lush, vibrant Balinese forest. This is going to be an utterly peaceful retreat for us to welcome in the New Year, with only the sounds of nature around us. The house is constructed almost entirely from bamboo, seriously impressive and a stunning structure, created by hand, that we can all appreciate, especially with big double beds for us all! And the best part? We got a massive discount for being so last-minute with our booking - winning already at the spontaneous life!

Despite numerous warnings from fellow travellers about Bali being an over-populated tourist trap, plus the wettest wet season they’ve experienced over here for twenty years, we can wholeheartedly declare that we're all absolutely obsessed! We connected with Agung, our airport driver, and he transformed into our incredible tour guide during our stay. We loved Ubud and with it being just a short thirty-minute drive away from the village, we had the opportunity to explore it and all the nearby places of interest.

On the way to visit the Ulan Danu Beratan temple, we asked for a quick pit stop to grab a takeaway coffee. To our surprise, Agung, amidst a slight language barrier, whisked us away to a full blown coffee plantation. We ended up having a really interesting visit, diving deep into the world of coffee, who knew! Witnessing coffee beans growing on the trees was a first for all of us. They also showcased cacao plants, turmeric, ginger, and lemongrass, each of which we haven't seen growing naturally - only what we've bought from Tesco's. We delved into the coffee-making process, discovering the art behind it all. Plus, this place is a certified Luwak coffee plantation so we learned about the unique process involving the Luwak animal, which digests the coffee cherries, and yes, the beans are then collected ‘after digestion’ to create some of the most expensive coffee out there. We also explored the ethical considerations surrounding many of these Luwak plantations in Bali. And of course, we indulged in tasting an array of coffees! What a delightful twist to a quick latte on route - a really interesting and unexpected couple of hours well spent. Plus, we’re all charged up after all that caffeine, ready to bounce over to the temple for some RE learning. Energy and focus at the max!

By the time we arrived at the temple, the kids were driving us mad, so we decided to send them off for their own little "self-discovery" tour (and ice creams), while Dan and I wandered around, soaking up the serene vibes at our own pace. The site of the temple is beautiful, set on Lake Beratan in the mountainous Bedugul Regency. It's one of Bali's most iconic landmarks, even featuring on their 50,000 rupiah note. Eventually, we (somewhat reluctantly) regroup with the kids to explore the Pura Ulun Danu together, discovering it's a shrine to Dewi Danu, the Balinese Goddess of Water. We also discover that the design of the temple follows the Trimurti belief of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. 

We're actually really loving our time immersed in and learning about Bali Hinduism and their culture. Everywhere you turn in Bali, there are little offerings made out of coconut leaves and filled with flowers, food, and incense, as a symbol of showing respect and seeking blessings. They're in front of shops, outside restaurants, our Airbnb, in every temple, just everywhere. We are inspired by the Balinese ethical values and beliefs, particularly the idea that a person’s actions on earth shape their status in the next life. It's probably why every Balinese person we've met so far seems to radiate natural kindness. They really know how to take that extra moment to express gratitude to someone or something else.

We take another trip out to the Jatiluwih Rice Terrace, Bali's largest rice field, sprawling over 600 hectares on the slopes of the Batukara mountain range. It’s absolutely breathtaking looking out at the pure natural beauty of the lush green paddy fields and terraces in front of us. The agricultural wizardry is absolutely mind-blowing, it's a shame we haven't booked a guide to explain it all to us. It's like stepping into a time machine, seeing cows and ploughs and traditional methods that must have been passed down through generations. Truly amazing to stroll around and see it all firsthand, it's really inspired all of us to continue our own learning about it when we return back to our Airbnb.

Next stop to explore is the Sacred Sangeh Monkey Forest! This isn't just any forest; it's a magical sanctuary for monkeys and the home of Pura Bukit Sari, a sacred Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. We were excited to explore this gem, especially after learning about the Hindu trinity at Ulan Danu Beratan. We opted for here over the bustling Ubud Monkey Forest because it's quieter, cheaper and less crowded - perfect for our crew. Plus, the monkeys here are said to be friendlier than their Ubud counterparts. We decided to get a guide just to be extra cautious. And wow, what an experience it was! Poppy's day was made when a monkey jumped onto her lap and shoulder first. Floss had a blast with two monkeys on her at once, while a baby monkey sat beside her. Pheebs couldn't stop smiling as one climbed up her back! The girls were absolutely loving every moment - just Fin, who was so terrified that we had to cut our trip short. But what an unforgettable day it was!

As we reach New Year's Eve, we're excited to have booked a visit to The Mason Elephant Park! After extensive research, we discovered that this park is not only the first elephant park in Asia but also the only one in Bali to be awarded the Gold Certificate from the Asian Captive Elephants Standards. Initially unsure about the washing, bathing, and riding programs, we found out that there's a meticulous schedule to ensure balance, and that ethical rides can actually boost an elephant's overall health. It's really special to see the bond each trainer shares with the elephant under their care. Plus, it's crucial to highlight that these elephants were rescued from Sumatran Containment Camps, where they were sadly tethered for months with a bleak life expectancy of just 3-7 years, despite their natural lifespan being similar to humans. The park's close collaboration with the Asian Captive Elephants organisation ensures these majestic creatures receive the utmost care and welfare.

And, oh, what a day to remember! It was absolute pure joy being up close and personal with these magnificent creatures. Picture this: while we were giving one of them a wash down, she decided I needed a hug and wrapped her trunk around me like a long-lost friend, then let go, only to do it again. My heart was overflowing! I swear she was smiling while Phoebe was giving her trunk a scrub. We rode bareback and took a dip in the lake, with the elephants sinking underwater, then popping up to give us a surprise shower. We had the pleasure of meeting and feeding the newest little bundle of joy, Krisna, a five-year-old cutie getting the hang of things, and wrapped up our adventure with a family ride through the forest (just as the tropical skies decided to open up) on the elephants' backs. Seriously up there with one of the most incredible things we have done as a family, and just never how we could ever have imagined spending the last day of 2024. Any regrets for this trip? After that, absolutely not a chance! 

We've definitely wrapped up the year with a few days that have been so jam-packed with exciting discoveries and learning. After all the excitement, we welcomed in a chilled new year on the bamboo rooftop of our Airbnb with a cup of tea and a bar of Dairy Milk, surrounded by a symphony of fireworks constantly exploding from about 8pm onwards - who knew the Balinese loved fireworks so much? We had a 360-degree view that reached a crescendo at midnight, lighting up our view in every direction, continuing until at least 1am. Feeling content and happy as we finally close our eyes, excited to see what exciting adventures and wild surprises 2025 has in store for us! 

As January kicks off, we arrive in Sanur, with our aim to visit our friend Imogen from back home and see where she has called home for the last three years. Imogen used to be my PT, so I'm a little bit petrified she'll have me doing a workout - something I've barely done over the last four months! We settle into a beautifully rustic and traditional Balinese Airbnb, surrounded by long-term rentals that give the place a wonderfully homely atmosphere. It's perfectly nestled along the main strip and Sanur beachfront, allowing us to dive in and feel part of the vibrant community here. Since Bali is renowned as the yoga capital, I eagerly book a morning vinyasa flow at a local studio. It's the first bit of group exercise I've done since leaving, and I realise how much I've missed it. The session is absolutely beautiful, and it wraps up perfectly with a cup of ginger tea. What a fantastic way to kick off the day!

We spent a lovely afternoon catching up with Imogen, her fiancé Harry, and most importantly, their dog, Ralph! Honestly, seeing Imogen again was a treat, and we picked up right where we left off — thank goodness without the burpees this time! We've all been having dog withdrawals, so the kids were over the moon to hang out with a little furry friend for the afternoon. Imogen and Harry were also super helpful, showering us with tips on where to go and which companies to use for various things. Insider info is the best kind of info! The main recommendation being Waterbom Waterpark which the kids are now desperate to go to!

We got a message from our close friend Caroline in the UK about an upcoming beach clean in a little fishing village near us, Jimbaran. This area is famous for its relaxed vibe and a string of luxury resorts. Having participated in numerous beach cleans with the kids back in the UK, we anticipated a similar experience — strolling along with a bag and litter picker, gathering what others had left behind. But when we arrived, we discovered a whole army of volunteers and a beach absolutely overwhelmed in plastic. We discovered that this cleanup mission had been underway since before Christmas and now, on the 5th of January, it was still going strong, nonstop and relentless. We jumped in to help, with Agung joining us too, along with every other volunteer there. 

The sea was full of plastics and each new wave break brought with it a fresh new pile. Right in front of these luxury resorts, it was truly eye-opening. Today has been a real lesson for us all in environmental management. Agung explained to us that due to a massive failure in waste management, a lot of waste and plastic goes uncollected in Bali and ends up in the rivers and sea. Indonesia as a whole has a very low recycling rate, only an estimated 15 percent of waste is currently recycled. The pictures don’t really do it justice. For better coverage, have a look at the website or Instagram page of the organisers of the clean - Sungai Watch. Serious kudos to them - three inspiring young siblings on a mission to transform the situation in Indonesia with their scalable approach to tackling plastic pollution.

As our final day in Bali approaches, we eagerly surrender to the kids and dive into the excitement at Waterbom waterpark! It's a whirlwind of laughter all day as all six of us race from slide to slide, soaking up every ounce of fun. It is a well deserved break for them all to switch off and just enjoy themselves without any educational agenda, there has been so much for them to absorb since we've landed. While there's no photographic evidence - our phones stayed dry in the lockers - trust me, it was an absolute blast.. all of us embrace our inner kids for the day.



Our Bali adventure is wrapping up, at least for now, as we prepare to hop on the ferry to Nusa Lembongan and then make our way to Lombok’s Gili Air. We’re crossing our fingers for some island paradise, but who knows what the wet season has in store for us… Rain or shine, we’ve discovered we love it all anyway!