Death Valley and Yosemite National Parks

We reach an interesting point in our journey here. Remember how I mentioned in the last post about my rheumatoid arthritis acting up at the end of our time in Vegas? Well, this flare is no joke! The fatigue is off the charts. We push through and make it to our next stop in Death Valley. We find a campsite, park the RV and head over to the visitor centre. With every step feeling like I'm wading through glue; it's hard work. It's not just my body that's in pain and tired, even my mind is in a fog. Still, we soldier on, with four kids in tow there’s not much option other than to keep my determination and spirit going. 

Thankfully, the visitor centre here is absolutely fantastic - hands down the best one we've come across in all the national parks we've been to (calling all national park geeks... oh, it's just us!) They've got a full museum filled with a treasure trove of fascinating facts and information about the area. We all scatter, exploring at our own pace, gravitating to the areas that we each find most interesting. There's also a separate room screening a video showcasing the history of the area. We find ourselves happily engrossed here for a good hour, absorbing all the knowledge and working out our plans for where we want to go while we’re here.

We learn that Death Valley is the largest national park in the lower 48 states, spanning a massive 3.4 million acres! Everything we want to visit would be a short drive and a short walk - with my joints creaking with every move I thought, this is the perfect solution. With just one night here, we plan to squeeze in a few sights this afternoon, a couple more in the morning, then off we go to Mammoth Lakes. No more bloody hikes, the kids are thrilled!

The first destination on the list to discover is Badwater Basin - the lowest point in the country at 282 feet below sea level. But wait! We're all set to hit the road when suddenly our RV decides it's time for a little rebellion. The slide-out feature refuses to slide back in and we can't just drive around the valley with our bedroom hanging out! With the nearest WiFi hotspot back at the visitor centre, we reluctantly trek back there to call the RV company for help. They give us some steps to follow to fix it but the first attempt doesn't work. Dan is on a mission, back and forth making countless phone calls, attempting to fix the issue, tirelessly following instructions and returning with tools borrowed from fellow RVers. Despite all efforts, the stubborn slide-out remains stuck! As the sun sets, we accept it's a lost cause for the day. 

Luckily we hit the jackpot with an epic night show. Death Valley is renowned as one of the darkest locations on earth, being so far off grid that light pollution is practically non-existent. We're treated to a jaw-dropping view of the Milky Way twinkling above us and, to top it off, we also see the Pleiades star cluster for the very first time. Falling asleep with a frown about the day's events is simply out of the question after witnessing that!

Now a new day and the saga continues for Dan. Another round of phone calls, more tools borrowed and still no luck. Despite his usual handiness and knack for fixing things, this slide-out is not budging. Finally, after a series of failed attempts, the company agree to send a replacement RV our way tomorrow. For now it seems we’re stranded in Death Valley with an RV spot that looks more like a giant car park than a campsite (it was once an airport, so the park ranger told us). 

I head off back to the visitor centre to steal some WiFi to be productive with our extra time and wrap up the last blog post. Meanwhile, Dan decides to go on a little adventure to investigate the Ranch Resort next door where friends of ours had stayed previously. As I finish the blog and head to find him, he's in the pool area with the kids and has somehow arranged for us to spend the whole afternoon there. Kids were happy in the pool - which, by the way, is a natural spring-fed pool staying a consistent 30 degrees - and we both got to truly chill on a sun lounger, basking in the warmth of the sun, while letting my joints soak up all that heat! I've been particularly grumpy and tetchy lately, which I know is due to my joints. It impacts everyone around me, putting us all on edge with each other. Being stranded is a blessing in disguise and turns out to be just what we all needed. 

The next morning, we get a message from the RV company that they will provide us with our replacement anytime from 12pm onwards. Since we didn't explore yesterday, Dan sets off on another one of his little productive missions and discovers a jeep hire place next to the Ranch Resort. He screeches up next to us as a complete surprise in a bright yellow jeep and we all hop in! He's got it on a half-day hire so we set off on a whirlwind tour of the area before returning it at lunchtime, in time for the arrival of our new RV.

We managed to do our sightseeing tour in record speed and, best of all, zero hiking involved! From Badwater Basin, the lowest spot in the country, we zoomed over to Zabriskie Point, checked out Artists Palette, and wrapped up with a killer view of the whole valley at Dantes View. The scenery here is absolutely incredible! The area is known as the lowest, hottest and driest part of North America, with a sparse and barren landscape. With an average annual rainfall of just two inches, there are very few plants that have adapted to grow here. The kids are genuinely having a blast learning all about this fascinating place. 

We discover that the salt flats aren't a product of the sea level, but of minerals from the mountains. And the Artist Palettes rock colours we thought were all about copper? Nope, it's iron oxides and chlorite creating that stunning natural rainbow effect. These junior park ranger booklets are hidden gems of knowledge, educating all of us. The kids might be missing a lot of standardised education right now, but when we get back they're going to be the star pupils of every geography/geology class surely? Move over boring textbooks, here come the expert junior park rangers!

Exciting news! As we return to the site/car park, the replacement is already there ready and waiting for us. The engineer/mechanic immediately declared, "Yep - there's no fixing that!". It was clear it was well and truly broken. Then comes the fun part - transferring everything from one van to the other. That was a mission we'd definitely underestimated! The girls kindly take Poppy and Fin over to the visitor centre to proudly hand over their junior ranger booklets and see if they pass the test for another badge. Of course they totally ace it... plus, they get to witness the most comically entertaining Park Ranger doing the pledge - I can't believe I missed it! (Video on the Instagram page.) With everything in place, we finally hit the road around 2pm, set for a thrilling three-hour drive ahead to Mammoth Lakes.

For some reason, the kids are on a different wavelength, like they missed the memo on good vibes - each one of them grumpy with another. I realise we've skipped lunch due to all the van shenanigans, so we make a pit stop an hour into our journey and pull into a layby. Everyone jumps out, grabs a drink and some food and hits the reset button. Back on the road, chaos ensues again with the kids bickering non-stop. Our patience is wearing thin so we decide to throw in the towel for the day. We end up parking the RV at a random spot near some fishing lakes for a spontaneous boondocking session after just another hour on the road.

This now causes Phoebe to get upset because the plan has gone awry! With it now being dark, us in the middle of nowhere and no electric hook up, our solution at this point is simple: grab a glass of wine, light a campfire, and cosy up under the stars. The new van even has a ladder to the roof - perfect for Pheebs and Fin to get a bit of space and keep an eye on things from above. Slowly but surely, we all regain our composure, head to bed feeling happier and more at ease with each other, and prepare to tackle the rest of our journey tomorrow!

As we are now behind schedule due to our Death Valley RV adventures and unexpected nights boondocking, we've decided to skip Mammoth Lakes and set our sights straight on Yosemite National Park. With another three-hour drive standing between us and our next destination, we're happy that everyone is somewhat well-rested and slightly less cranky than yesterday, allowing for the customary family bickering to be kept at its usual manageable level for most of the drive.

The one thing that has really amazed us throughout this whole incredible roadtrip is watching the transformation of the landscape and scenery right before our eyes. And let me tell you, nowhere has this been more evident than between Death Valley and Yosemite. We went from barren, lifeless desert where even tumbleweeds decided they didn't want to grow, to vibrant lush green forests. We went from baking next to the pool in a 27-degree desert to driving through snowfall in the highest peaks of Yosemite. We all really felt the difference between the two, and loved breathing in the fresh air and feeling the life and oxygen of the trees around us again. Maybe this is what we’ve been missing and why everybody has been so cranky - signs of life around us!

First hurdle - we arrive at the campsite set within the park and find it is fully booked! The closest alternative being an hour further down the road. With everybody ready to get out after the long journey to get here, we decide to make the most of exploring the area and want to head to the visitor centre to get those all-important junior ranger booklets anyway. The beauty of this place is simply breathtaking! Everywhere you look, it's gorgeously fresh and exactly how you'd imagine 'fall' to be like in the USA. The colours are just stunning. Being surrounded by the woods and trees is my ultimate happy place - it's where I find peace and tranquillity. When times have been hard in recent years, walking in nature with my dogs by my side has been my therapy. I can feel the stress melting away already. We end up walking around 8km, taking in all the beauty and stopping for a delicious warm chilli lunch in the deli, before reluctantly heading back to set off to the new RV park.

The good news about this place is that it comes with all the amenities - electric hook ups, water, and waste facilities - perfect for us after our nights boondocking. Plus there's a laundry room which is a lifesaver as I now have about five loads mounting up. Now for the catch visiting Yosemite - the whole area is like a wildlife sanctuary! Signs warning about bears and mountain lions are pinned up everywhere. As we check in, the guy behind the desk nonchalently mentions a bear family and a resident "cat". We find a Google review where someone claimed the said "cat" attacked their dog in front of their kid? Eek! We get a leaflet handed to us advising to keep a close eye on small kids because they can be prime targets for these animals!! I summon ALL my courage just to whizz across the site to get the laundry on, and a second time to chuck it all in the dryer. The fear of becoming a bear's late night snack is real!! The folding can wait until daylight - there's no way I can risk a midnight laundry run in this campground!!

Day two back in Yosemite entails much of the same as the day before - immersing ourselves in the beauty of nature once again - walking, exploring and absorbing all the wonders around us. We start with a walk to the iconic Bridalveil Falls in the morning, followed by yummy lunch back at the deli. Then, after Pheebs' suggestion, we head off on the Yosemite Falls loop trail. Even though the falls may be dry at this point in the season, we get to witness the breathtaking Half Dome mirrored in the river. Pure nature at its finest!

What arguments?!

Just beautiful.

We get a spot at a different campsite tonight, within the park but a 45 minute drive south from the valley centre. As the sun is painting the sky as it sets, we've been informed this is the perfect time to spot bears in action. We're all scanning the surroundings as we're driving along with heads and eyes out of each window. And guess what? We spot a bear right by a layby! A small, adorable creature covered in thick brown fur - he reminded us all of Bruce, our St. Bernard! Although we couldn't capture a picture as we were at the front of the bear jam in our clumsy RV, the thrill of the sighting fills us with joy and disbelief! As we continue our journey to the campsite, we make pit stops at each layby, hoping for more sightings. Alas, our luck has run out, but the thrill of the chase is all part of the fun and keeps us all going until we arrive at camp.

As we roll into the new campsite under the cover of darkness, we are greeted by yet another bear warning sign - talk about a warm welcome! Suddenly, the idea of encountering a bear doesn't sound as exciting now that we're on the ground! But hey, we stick to our usual routine: start a fire, kick back, and gaze at the twinkling stars above - all while playfully freaking each other out about the possibility of a bear lurking in the shadows behind us!

As we are at the southern end of Yosemite, we head out in the morning to Mariposa Grove - the largest sequoia grove in Yosemite, boasting over 500 mature giant sequoias. Our journey includes a 3.5km loop where we encounter the awe-inspiring 2700 year old Grizzly Giant. 2700 years old!! It completely steals the spotlight in the grove, standing with a base circumference of over 90 feet. Its height is equal to the Statue of Liberty. It's just incredible. We also stroll through the legendary California Tunnel Tree, the one and only tree in Yosemite with a tunnel carved through it - a historic relic from the 19th century aimed at promoting parks and attracting tourists.

It really is mind-blowing to witness the sheer magnitude of these giant sequoias and I find myself having another moment with myself, amidst the playful chaos of kids pretending to be cowboys around me. I find these surroundings to be completely spiritually uplifting and rejuvenating as they truly bring a sense of peace to my soul. 

Back again to the deli! The soups and stews just make your heart sing in this cold weather! Warm and satified, we head out on a 7.5km loop through the valley, passing the majestic El Capitan on our way to the visitor centre and watching some crazy, and extremely brave, people scale the surface! Back at the visitor centre, Poppy and Fin proudly take their pledge and receive their fourth - and final - junior ranger badges that they have been working so hard for again. I'm so pleased for them that they have remained dedicated to this at each national park, showcasing their growth and learning throughout our adventures in the US. As I keep saying, even though we are not following the national curriculum, they have been soaking up new knowledge like sponges and have embraced their roles as active participants in their education. 

We head back for one more night at the first RV camp, as that will be an hour in the right direction for the morning. Spirits are soaring after our stay in Yosemite and as we approach the grand finale of our USA RV adventure... San Francisco, here we come!

But first, one last beautiful sunset to enjoy here…