San Francisco

Well what a grand finale to our trip - a delightful little tummy bug has decided to crash the party! Before the bug came along everyone was in high spirits and excited to explore San Francisco and we had a great journey here - singing our hearts out to all of our, now favourite, country tunes, all gearing up for the excitement of seeing all the iconic landmarks we've been itching to see.

Arriving at the RV park in San Francisco is a whole different experience compared to the national parks we've become accustomed to - we are wedged on a thin slice of gravel between two colossal RVs! No fire pits for Fin, no space for our camp chairs for star gazing - this is the epitome of a city RV park! However, we've selected a spot in Larkspur, a nice side of the city with it's own quieter family orientated centre. It's under a fifteen minute stroll to the ferry port that has regular twenty minute ferry rides into the heart of San Francisco. Despite the spot feeling tighter than me struggling to get into a pair of jeans after a month in the USA (gulp), the location couldn't be more ideal.

Once we set up we notice a little gap in the fence at the back of the RV park that leads out to beautiful views over the bay. We sit with a cold beer, admiring the view and the changing colours of the sky while Poppy and Fin are back to their cowboy games again. We decide to take a wander into Larkspur to see what the area is like. Pheebs and Floss opt to stay in the RV with bowls of cereal for dinner and, of course, the WiFi connection. As we walk over the freeway bridge, we're surrounded by Friday night traffic on one side and the bay on the other, with the Golden Gate Bridge shimmering in the background - yep, this signals our official arrival in San Francisco! A lovely Mexican dinner and a round of margaritas later, we happily make our way back home, looking forward to the day ahead tomorrow.

Out of the blue overnight, poor Dan becomes the first unfortunate recipient of this awful tummy bug. Without being too graphic, being stuck in an RV and in such close quarters, we've definitely bonded in ways we never imagined!! Dan was the star of the show from 11pm to 3am, with the rest of us as his unwilling audience. Pops started crying at one point, fearing a repeat performance herself. Fin of course slept through it all - that kid has always been able to sleep anywhere and through anything!

After a couple of rehydration tablets and feeling over the worst of it, Dan managed to feel well enough to head out for the 11am ferry. It arrives at the ferry port in San Francisco at Pier 1 and our plan was to take a leisurely stroll down to Pier 39. Along the way, we made a pit stop at Pier 33 to grab our tickets for Alcatraz tomorrow - watch out, Al Capone, Pheebs and Floss are on their way! We meandered through the tourist traps at Pier 39, checked off the obligatory seal sighting, and indulged in a pizza feast (although not for Dan, poor guy!). As we slowly made our way back, we all agreed that it was enough for today, we were all running on fumes from the events of last night. An easy and early night is definitely in order for everyone.

Just as I was celebrating the girls getting back into reading, they decided to switch things up and pretty much both immediately stopped! Pheebs finished her book on the worlds most haunted houses and she refuses to read any of the ones I packed for her. And Floss? Well she peeked at the ending of her book, spotted the character she didn't like making a reappearance and that was the end of her reading journey! No amount of convincing, without giving away the plot, can make her reconsider. So, while I envisioned a cosy, quiet reading session for everyone, it turns out it's just me content with my kindle and peppermint tea. Dan gathers the rest of them and they all watch Clint Eastwood's Great Escape from Alcatraz as the warm up to tomorrow's school outing!

A new day and, hooray! Everyone is back to their usual healthy and energetic selves after a full nights sleep. We've got the 10am tour for Alcatraz booked and our Uber is picking us up at 8.45am, giving us enough time for a quick coffee before the excitement begins. As we arrive at Alcatraz dock, a friendly park ranger welcomed us and provided an introduction to the island, guiding us on how to make the most of our visit and how to work the audio tour gadgets. To our surprise, we discovered that Alcatraz is another national park, prompting us to enquire about the junior park ranger booklets. And guess what? They offer them! I mean, who wouldn't want an Alcatraz badge?! Now Pops and Fin are are all set with their pencils and workbooks, adding an extra layer of fun and focus as we explore every corner of this fascinating island.

Not that we needed anything to keep our focus - this place is bursting with fascinating history. We learned that this island was first a military base, then a lighthouse, before it became the notorious prison that we all know it for. It later became a site of Native American occupation which we found interesting, having visited so many places here with different Native tribes. And one thing we didn't realise - kids actually grew up on Alcatraz Island! Around 60 families of the prison officers who worked here called this place home. We are completely captivated and we haven't even walked in through the prison doors yet. 

We eagerly gather the audio tour headsets and step inside the prison. Goosebumps cover my entire body as we are greeted by the voices of four correctional officers and four Alcatraz inmates narrating the tour through our headphones. The experience is nothing short of thrilling, sending shivers down our spines and keeping us all hooked with fascination. We are all fully engaged as we set on this tour together. 

Try to picture, the rooms so small, packed row after row, all stacked on top of each other. The audio was so on point, it was like we had a surround sound experience of the whole place, truly transporting us into the heart of the experience. When we reached D-Block, where the prisoners were confined in solitude, it sent a further chill down our spines and added a whole new level of intensity. We tried to put ourselves in the prisoners shoes, imagining how they must have felt isolated on this island, but also in the officers' shoes - just imagine being stuck on this island with all these characters!! We were all completely engrossed - definitely the most thrilling school field trip I've ever been on!

We're chilling now in the sun in the prisons recreation yard while Pops and Fin diligently work on their park ranger booklets. Can you believe those Alcatraz prisoners only got time outside on weekends, and only if they were on their best behaviour all week. Imagine stepping out, seeing the sea and the glorious city of San Francisco in the distance, only to be dragged back inside. I mean, I’m sure they obviously deserved it, but gawd, that's rough!! 

Such an incredible tour. As we wrap up our visit, we make our way to the park ranger office where Poppy and Fin are awarded their fifth, and undoubtedly this time final, junior park ranger badge! This badge is so cool and the surprise element just adds to the excitement. It perfectly completes their collection. We head back to the ferry - joke about leaving Pheebs and Floss behind - and decide where to go for a well-deserved lunch!

We've had recommendations from a couple of different friends to visit the Sausalito area of San Francisco, so we wasted no time and ordered an Uber to get us there. As we drove over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, I try and snap a pic from the back of the Uber, but have my fingers crossed we'll have enough energy to come back tomorrow for a bike ride over it. Sausalito is stunning, nestled by the sea, giving off a charming Padstow-like vibe in San Fran. We wander aimlessly around the shops trying to find somewhere for lunch.

We make it in to a fabulous bay-side restaurant and somehow get seated at a table right next to the open doors overlooking the bay - how perfect is that?! This is a real gem of a restaurant, serving up dishes freshly sourced from the bay itself. And guess what? We're sipping on our first glass of fizz since leaving for this trip! We raise a toast to each other, our family and our unforgettable American adventure. We are constantly pinching ourselves that we are in all these places. It's been a definite rollercoaster and we're feeling incredibly fortunate and grateful for taking the plunge. We're so lucky to be sharing all these experiences with our kids. Maybe its the wine talking, but right now, I'm blissfully forgetting about the constant sibling squabbles in the background!

Joking aside, the arguments and stresses we’ve been dealing with here have been nothing compared to what we’ve been through and what the girls have endured over the last couple of years. Truly, its unacceptable that the English education system lacks the necessary support for neurodiversities that so many children are grappling with. I worry what the future holds when we return, but for this present moment, we’ve just got to keep focused on the positives of the here and now. 

Well, my earlier little euphoric bubble has well and truly burst! I'm tossing and turning in bed trying to sleep when I hear it's Floss's turn to deal with the bug! Her reign over the bathroom begins at 11pm and lasts until 5am. We swap beds, she joins me while Dan takes one of the sofas and we're up and down all night again. Poor kid, she really suffers. Looks like the leisurely ride over the Golden Gate Bridge is definitely off the cards!

With the weather as grey and wet as our mood and, out of nowhere, a big blazing row with Phoebe erupts, leaving us all feeling cramped in this RV park, we decide to turn things around and make a change to our plans. We no longer need the quick access to the city, with all plans on hold for sick bay, so collectively agree its time to escape to somewhere greener and more spacious for our last night. Plus, Fin needs a firepit to toast his final s'mores! After a half-hour drive, we reach a new RV park that felt like a breath of fresh air - space galore, trees for days, play areas, a swimming pool, a hot tub, the list goes on. It's a paradise of family friendliness and we already wish we could stay for longer!

After Floss and I surrender to our tiredness and have a little power nap together, we all go out for a wander around the RV park. After going to the playground and seeing the chickens, goats and donkeys on site, we end up all having an amazing time time in the hot tub together. A relaxing experience, with noone else around, that left everyone feeling better and in much calmer moods. It felt like a perfect way to end the trip with all of us chatting and laughing together, enjoying the happy days.

Time for another little turn of events - next thing we know, Fin hauls himself out of the hot tub and it's his turn now to be the latest sickness bug victim!! Dan tackles the clean up attempt by the pool and I whisk him off for a shower. Instead of our planned BBQ, firepit and conversations under the stars, we're all tucked up in bed at 7.40pm, all either too queasy or too anxious to eat. Our last night in the USA ending with a whimper instead of a bang!

At least he has his big sister to read to him when he’s feeling poorly 

So, with it noww Fin's turn to take up residence in my bed and I think the final bout of sickness was around 3.30am, resulting in a mini laundry marathon ready for the morning with two sheet changes needed! Poor kid. Despite my initial hopes of a leisurely stroll across the Golden Gate Bridge on our way back to the RV depot, with the morning consumed by a lot of extra washing and scrubbing the RV spotless prepping for its return, all we could manage was a quick snapshot out of the window as we drove past. The joy of family travel!

Can you see it in the background?!

One thing we have discovered about America - and travelling with kids - is that you simply can't conquer it all! It’s a good thing there is still so much to do and so much we want to come back for. The Golden Gate Bridge being the unicorn on that list!! Who can complain when we've had an absolutely fantastic month filled with amazing experiences and still have so many exciting adventures ahead. 

My biggest worry now is whether we'll make it through the marathon eleven-hour flight to Fiji tonight without any more of us becoming unsuspecting bug hosts!! Wish us - and the other passengers - good luck!

Oh! And can anyone tell me, who is this American dude with the fancy moustache who seems to have taken over my husband?