Australia! Dicky Beach - Maleney - Byron Bay
Incredibly, despite being on the opposite side of the world, Australia has felt the most like home and the UK! The moment we landed and got our camper, everything felt strikingly familiar. From driving on the left side of the road, to the landscapes, road layouts, people, and the language — even driving past a BP garage and Wild Bean café - made it all feel just like we were back home in Petersfield!
We went into this part of the trip with zero expectations, except for seeing my cousin Luke, who's called Australia home for the last fifteen years. Luke planned our journey meticulously — flying into Brisbane and cruising down the coast to finally end up in Sydney with him to celebrate Christmas together. And when I say meticulously, I mean it! We had spreadsheets, revised spreadsheets, itineraries, links to campsites — every single thing we could possibly need was organised for us. This was a welcome relief after all the planning that had gone into the rest of our trip so far. All we had to do was click the links and book the campsites. Easy peasy! Not only did he help us with all the prep; he also drove over two days and more than a thousand miles to join us at our first campsite and kick off the first leg of the trip with us. It was really special to be welcomed by our first familiar family face in over three months.
We park up at our first site at Dicky Beach on the Sunshine Coast, feeling incredibly surreal to be here in Oz, yet it honestly has the feel of a UK campsite, especially with Luke joining us too. Our pitch has a perfect view of the beach beyond and our only plans here are days spent splashing around and attempting to catch the waves on our new body boards. There's nothing quite like sipping coffee and munching on breakfast around the camp table with Luke in the mornings, and then swapping that for beers, BBQs, and wine in the evenings. He's got the kids in a Rubik's cube boot camp, and he's also on a very important mission with Fin writing a letter to Santa. We're making sure the big guy knows we're cruising in a campervan and will be in Sydney for Christmas. Can't have him dropping presents at the wrong chimney/tent flap!
We soon realise that the camper needs an extension! It's like moving from a mansion to a shoe box compared to our USA RV and we're all feeling the squeeze. Without slide-outs and with everyone on sofa beds that are a few inches short of comfort, we decide to buy a gazebo with a four-man tent attached to the back. This will definitely add some flexibility with sleeping arrangements and a little breathing space to enjoy the great outdoors.
Luke organises a lunch with his 'Aussie fam' - Dick and Gillian, parents of his best friends out here, they have been his adopted family throughout his time here. Both originally from Wales and having taught art at Winchester College and a specialist college in Savannah in the USA before moving here, Gillian welcomed all of us into her home with boundless enthusiasm (and champagne and oysters darling!). She's the kind of teacher everyone dreams of having. She saw all of our kids for the unique humans they are, naturally embracing their individuality, boosting all four of them with her incredible warmth. They all left after a lovely afternoon spent here with their self-esteem levels cranked up to the max. As we're discovering on this trip, it's not always about the places we visit, but the amazing people we meet along the way that truly make the difference.
I absolutely loved this poem in their downstairs loo! I just had to snap a photo of it. I need to sweet talk Phoebe to create something for us so we can have our own copy at home — it truly resonated with me.
I nearly forgot the best part of the visit! A quick stroll around the block after lunch, and we spot countless kangaroos - it’s the Australian dream come true!
Time for us to head to our next adventure - Maleney, or as we're now affectionately calling it, "Rainy Maleney"! It really did feel like we'd teleported back to the UK at this point, digging gullies next to the camper to drain all the excess never-ending water and keep the tent area dry. With flashbacks to a soggy weekend in the New Forest, this wasn't quite the sunny Australian experience we'd envisioned! But not to worry, a night out with some of Luke's friends he's gathered to meet us ensures that our spirits are anything but damp. These are people just like us who have taken the plunge and pulled their kids out of school for a year to embark on the amazing Australian 'Lap'. They've journeyed around the entire continent, world-schooling and creating unforgettable memories along the way. We're absolutely inspired and have eagerly added this to our 'next time' list!
Despite the forecast threatening us with more tropical rainstorms, we were determined to visit Australia Zoo, especially after discovering online that this weekend marks Robert Irwin's 21st birthday, with the entire Irwin family joining the celebration. Ignoring the forecast was the best decision as it stayed dry well past lunchtime. Walking into the zoo was an emotional experience, with iconic images of the legendary Steve Irwin everywhere. Seriously, what a guy and what a legacy he has left behind. We are completely inspired to channel Steve and Terri Irwin in everything we do - the ultimate power couple. The kids were absolutely starstruck when Robert arrived with his mum, sister and brother-in-law by his side. The crocodile show was nothing short of AMAZING, completely iconic, and we all, young and old(er), absolutely loved it!
We had plans while we were in this area to visit Gardners Falls and hike and explore the Glass House Mountains. Unfortunately, the tropical Australian downpours had other plans. While we didn't make it for a dip in the freshwater pools or get on one of the mountains for bushwalking, the rain did finally clear, allowing us a pit stop at a sweet little cafe on route out of Maleney, complete with a mountain view that didn't require our hiking trainers. The kids were glad to dodge that bullet! It's a bit disappointing as we were keen to learn more about the Aboriginal tribes, especially the Gubbi Gubbi people, who are the traditional custodians of the Glass House Mountains. These striking formations are steeped in Dreamtime stories, with the tale being that they were once living beings who were turned into stone by a powerful God - reminding us of the Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon. We're hopeful for another opportunity to delve into this rich culture and history later on our trip.
Next stop - the stunning Byron Bay! This place is absolutely brimming with gorgeous people everywhere you look. There are vibrant, young, fit and healthy folk all around - it turns out it's 'schoolies' week, where students who have finished their A-level equivalent exams flock to the coast for some fun and relaxation. We enjoy a last lunch and say goodbye to Luke here for a couple of weeks, before being reunited again closer to Christmas when we arrive in Sydney. Our plans here are just like at Dicky Beach - lazing around on the sand, bodyboarding and building sandcastles. Unfortunately, Phoebe's having some real sensory issues with the sand here, which had actually started back at Dicky Beach. She's really not enjoying it and having a really tough time, which is challenging since we're planning to beach-hop our way to Sydney! We try and stick to a grassy spot and bring out her art supplies so she can sit and paint, but she's still struggling and we have a few difficult days to work through here.
As is our usual go to remedy, we decide to chase those happy hormones by attempting some form of physical exercise, this time with a family surf lesson. It's exactly what the doctor ordered and the ideal way to coax Phoebe back into the ocean with a smile. Plus, we've got some very cool and enthusiastic surf instructors from San Francisco and Argentina to give us a hand — and definitely a few laughs! After the family surfing lesson in Ipanema during our first week of travelling in Brazil, all four of the kids, plus Dan, are riding waves like pros. Meanwhile, I'm barely getting my knee up before I'm tumbling around like I'm in a wave-powered washing machine! We all wrap up the lesson with enormous smiles and a sense of triumph! Forget English or maths lessons down under in Australia, and who needs culture anyway? Surfs up, dudes! We hire boards again the next day for a whole day riding the waves together. Everyone's having a blast, happy in the water and at the beach - job done! I'm still here just riding the knee express! Could this be the new challenge - family Destecroix all pro surfers by the time we return?!
Since Byron Bay is the most easterly point in Australia, we made sure we hauled ourselves out of bed a few times to catch the sunrise from Cape Byron Lighthouse. One morning, with Floss and Fin in tow, we got an extra treat - a pod of dolphins playing tag by the rocks. We also kicked back a couple of evenings to watch the sky's colour-changing magic show and were treated to another dolphin performance as the sun clocked out. The skies here have been a masterpiece of calming pinks, oranges and pale blues. Just soothing and utterly perfect.
We wrapped up our stay in Byron in the most perfect way possible - with a visit from our old friend from the UK, Ben. Ben snagged the title of Best Job in the World back in 2009 as an island caretaker on the Great Barrier Reef, and he's been living the dream here ever since. We last caught up at his English wedding in 2012, where we somehow managed to park our car in a pond, turning it into the best accidental wedding photo prop ever. Reuniting on the other side of the world was really special, as we effortlessly picked up right where we left off as if no time had passed at all. The meetup was made even more special as Fin and Ben’s son Atlas became instant best friends, creating an unforgettable bond, thick as thieves and both definite mischief makers!
Ben has been the perfect burst of positivity we needed, wholeheartedly supporting our journey and the incredible impact travel has on life. Despite his recent challenges, he shares everything with such uplifting energy, truly demonstrating the power of positivity. He's definitely another shining example of how the people, not the places, we are meeting along the way are what's making all the difference to our journey.
It was a beautiful way to end our Byron trip - sharing the sunrise together with our families.
