Fiji
Wow.. Fiji, what can we say? We've completely embraced Fiji time, diving into the bliss of relaxation and the beauty of a simple life! This has been the ultimate pit stop on our journey, allowing us to unwind, reflect on where we are, and appreciate the path we're on. Welcome to FIJI TIME and a bit of whirlwind recap of the last two weeks..
After our epic 11.5 hour flight from San Francisco (with thankfully no more sickness) we touched down in Fiji at 5am. Waiting until 2pm to be able to check in to our Airbnb was a real test of patience. Those hours felt like an eternity, the Fiji magic definitely hadn't sprinkled its charm on us yet and we were a delirious mix of exhausted, sweaty and very much out of our comfort zones again!
Our first Airbnb was in Volivoli, in the north of the main island. We made our way to the car rental desks to see what we could find and ended up having some help from someone working at one of the desks, but by contacting one of his friends. We picked up a dirty little hire car, covered in scratches and cat footprints and with a couple of mouldy coffee cups in the boot, from a random bloke outside the airport and, thinking it suited us perfectly, we hit the road, while taking in the beauty of this island as we drove. We had decided back in the UK to stick to the main island of Viti Levu for the whole trip, avoiding the extra costs of hopping to the outer islands and minimising any extra travel. Also, as the main island is home to the majority of Fiji's residents, we wanted to experience the 'real' Fiji, rather than lounging around in one of those dreamy resorts on the other islands.
We were cruising along, through the most vibrant green landscapes and under the brightest blue skies. We zipped past tiny communities that seemed to be held together by tin and sheer willpower. There were countless stray dogs roaming free, kids casually strolling along the main roads, boys wearing skirts - or sulus as we now know - all adding to the unique sights. Horses, goats and cows were tethered along the roadsides. As we arrived in the town of Rakiraki to pick up some supermarket essentials, we were greeted by music blasting from colossal stereos outside the shops, with the storefronts as colourful as a rainbow. Buses were rolling in, packed with all the locals, and everything was a true feast for the senses. Here we were, all six of us, back to cluelessly bimbling around, not knowing where or what everything is, diving into a brand new culture once again, new sounds and smells swirling all around us.
Still a couple of hours ahead of schedule we decided to head to the closest beach on the way to our Airbnb. There, we strolled out to sea, recovered ourselves from the onslaught of the town, and just took a moment to calm and relax before arriving at the Airbnb. To say we were wrecked at this point was an understatement!
But wow! Arriving at the Airbnb, it's absolutely stunning. This has to be the most amazing view on the entire island. It's just incredible and unlike any place we've ever stayed at before. With the infinity pool only a two minute stroll away, we're ready for the next couple of days to be all about pure relaxation. No plans, no pressure, just kicking back and chilling. Time to break out the factor 50 suncream again!
Now let me dive into the absolute best part of Fiji - the people! Honestly, this is where I should have begun the whole chapter. The Fijians are pure sunshine on two feet, radiating happiness, kindness and generosity everywhere they go. We’ve never experienced such warm welcomes in all of our travels. Even though it appears to be one of the most underdeveloped countries we’ve visited so far, it’s as if they’ve got a stash of good vibes to share with everyone they meet.
After lounging like lizards by the pool for a couple of days, we decided to drive to a nearby beach. We had barely stepped foot on the sand when we were invited to join one family to share their beach picnic. Later on, as the kids were off making buddies and playing, we had a plate of watermelon sent over to us by another family. In a place where resources are scarce, the generosity is so genuinely abundant and it’s a delightful lesson for us all.
The warmth of the adults is matched by the incredible friendliness of the kids! A lively group comes over, striking up a conversation, and soon Fin is sharing his sand toys. In no time, kids of all ages are all playing together, proving that language is no barrier - who needs it when you've got the universal language of fun! And, as always, we English are in awe of the Fijians who are clearly learning English so well. It was a perfect afternoon, with the kids exchanging games from their cultures—exactly what we hoped for, instead of being stuck at a resort with other Westerners. We wrapped up the day with a stop at the roadside sellers, grabbing some delicious pineapples and fresh coconuts!
As we wrap up our adventures in Volivoli, it's time to head to the southern side of the island, aiming for the coral coast and Maui Bay. Our four hour road trip includes a stop half way at Port Denarau on the western coast, a bustling port and lively little hub filled with restaurants and shops. It feels worlds apart from the simple accommodations of Volivoli and Rakiraki, like stepping into a parallel universe. Here, we indulge in some classic Fijian cuisine - chicken nuggets and pizzas, naturally, for the kids - before continuing our journey to the south.
We arrive really late - around 7pm, and shrouded in darkness - to our new Airbnb where we are warmly greeted by our hosts, Papu and Vanshika. We instantly begin to relax as drinks are served and the kids eagerly discover toys hidden in the cupboards. This, we realise, is the first place on our travels that is so fantastically equipped for kids. There's a box of toy cars, playdough, games all neatly arranged inside, and downstairs is a hangout area with hammocks, a basketball net, table tennis, stacks of beach toys, kayaks - you name it, the list goes on! Poppy and Fin claim it's like being at their Nan and Grandad's house and, with that, we're all certain this is going to be a place of happiness and relaxation for us.
The next few days here were an absolute dream as we continued to embrace the art of relaxation! The beach in front of our Airbnb boasts a jetty that looks like it was plucked straight from a postcard, leading out to waters so turquoise, you'd think it was photoshopped. From this spot, we all dive in to swim and snorkel, becoming underwater explorers. Meanwhile, I'm on a private mission to conquer my fear of the mysterious creatures lurking below the surface!! I have no clue why I'm scared or where it came from, but ever since I was a kid snorkeling with my brother, I'd leave him in the dust - or bubbles - and race back to shore at the slightest hint of anything fishy.
This is an amazing place to start getting over that fear - surrounded by little Nemo's swimming around, tiny fluorescent blue fish that we've only ever seen in pet shop fish tanks, stunning blue starfish, zebra fish, parrot fish, just an abundance of breathtaking underwater life. As long as I can ignore the disgusting sea worms and the occasional sea snake, I'll be just fine! Thankfully, Dan loves it and is constantly off with all three of the girls, their faces glued to the water. I have my Captain Braveheart Fin by my side, keeping me company on the shore or jetty. This is a fear I'm obviously passing onto him and that I'm determined both of us are going to conquer before this trip is through!
We're having fantastic beach days, soaking up the sun and making friends with every stray dog in sight. We even book in for a little spa day, pedicures and manicures all round - Fiji's really bringing out the girlie side in Poppy! Relaxation is definitely the name of the game. Clubbing together all the beachy pics from the last couple of weeks right here..
As we spend more time chatting with Papu and Vanshika, we discover that Papu is a passionate fisherman and quite the local legend and wheeler dealer on the side, with locals frequently calling him to see what fish he's got an offer. Excitingly, he generously invites us to join him for a fishing adventure from the reef, explaining we'll need to start at 5am due to the tides. Pops and Fin are absolutely buzzing; Pheebs and Floss, not so much! So, the four of us enthusiastically brace the pre-sunrise hours, eager to see what we can catch.
As I’ve shared before in a previous blog post, I love sunrise. It always feels like such a special time of the day. Everything is so quiet and still — something we rarely experience in our bustling family life! This morning, we have the entire reef to ourselves, with not another soul in sight, just us and Papu as our guide. He expertly uses his bamboo hand-line to reel in his catch while sharing local history and traditions with us as we fish.
He told us about the Indo-Fijian history, how in the late 1800s the British colonial government brought over thousands of Indian labourers to Fiji with promise of good housing and wage rates to work the sugar cane industry. There are now three official languages in Fiji - Native Fijians speak Fijian as their first language, Indo-Fijians speak Hindi as their first language, and both speak English as a second language. The country is a cultural melting pot which celebrates and acknowledges public holidays for all of these separate groups equally - I’m not sure I know of another country that does the same?
One traditional custom he shares with us is that when Fijian men propose, they present a whale's tooth, known here as a tabua, to their future father-in-law, symbolising their wealth and commitment and, most importantly, love. Can you believe whale's teeth are valued at thousands of dollars?? Another intriguing tradition involves turtles, which were once caught and savoured during special occasions, such as the passing of a village chief. Although the Fijian government has now banned this practice, some still continue it illegally by first capturing and then drilling through the shell and tethering it near the reef to cook at a later time . I'd feel compelled to cut the line and set it free if I ever encountered such a scene!
Our morning isn't just interesting and educational — it's also an absolute success! Poppy kicks things off by reeling in the first catch, a sizeable travelli that's perfect to feed us all for dinner alongside some chips. Fin follows up with three more impressive catches: a parrot fish, a leather jacket, and another travelli, all big enough for us to share and taste. By the time we return to the Airbnb at 8am, we already feel like we're winning for the day! Papu, again generously, spends his time with the kids, scaling and filleting the fish so they are ready for us to pop on the grill in the evening.
On another day here, while chatting with Vanshika about schools and why we’re in Fiji and our journey to this point, we dive into an interesting discussion about school provisions. Being a teacher and having worked in UK schools, I'm familiar with the tight budgets they face, but applying this to a Fiji budget was a real eye-opener. It's practically non-existent! While our schools might be underfunded, we often have amazing PTAs run by passionate parents who work out ways to raise extra funds for all sorts of additional resources the school might need. Unfortunately, this isn't allowed in Fiji. And even if it was, there’s simply no way to make it happen here, as families and communities just don’t have anything extra to contribute. So, not only do they struggle with government underfunding, but there's no opportunity to boost their schools income either.
Vanshika offered to take us to visit the village school, where her daughter will be starting in January, and we jumped at the chance. Eager to explore and understand this vital part of Fijian life, we planned the visit for the next day, asking her if it would be appropriate to head into Sigatoka town first to gather some school supplies to hand over tomorrow. I was trying my best not to be that assumptive white tourist, but she assured me it would be super helpful, and apparently, that's what the schools rely on. We picked out all the boring essentials - tonnes of exercise books, stationary, rulers, sharpeners etc. Then the kids went wild with all the fun stuff - skipping ropes, footballs, playground games, and, as it was nearing the end of term, sweets!
Exploring the school with Vanshika and the office administrator - who had been there since Vanshika was a child there - was such an interesting experience. It was similar to a UK school in so many ways - the classrooms decorated with colourful posters showcasing their learning and children's work; children were sitting together, collaborating and enthusiastically engaging in learning, plus a few stragglers doing their own thing outside of the classrooms. Teacher noticeboards and planning boards were bustling with information, and the school and classroom rules, along with the school values, all mirror what we appreciate in the UK. They were having an end of term party for one of the classes in the hall - cake, hot dogs, fizzy pop, all brought in for the celebrations. All of this felt a home from home.
What really stood out as different was the absence of cosy comforts - no colourful carpets to plop down on for carpet time. Kids without shoes. No lovely book corners or role-play areas. Forget about painted playground games or any fancy playground equipment. Instead, lunchtime brought a pack of stray dogs - four furry opportunists we saw, circling the kids hoping for any tasty leftovers, with the teachers seemingly not worried about them being there. Asking to see the canteen, we were told that a local lady plays chef for them, whipping up their lunches at home and selling to them at school. We're unsure if there's any health and hygiene guidelines to follow. Each classroom had its own set of authentic daily and weekly chores to help keep the school shipshape - from rubbish collection to tidying up in front of the class, and yes, even the glamorous task of toilet cleaning duties. It felt like all hands on deck and everyones involved in genuinely helping.
Once again, the language of play effortlessly broke down any barriers between the kids. In minutes after our tour ended, they were all mixing and mingling with different groups in every corner of the playground. Fin took our trusty travelling Instax camera and, faster than you can say "cheese," he managed to burn through three entire films, handing out the pictures before they’d had a chance to dry! They all had a blast running and charging around together. The older girls have even struck a deal with the kindergarten teacher to come back on Monday, promising the younger ones a bracelet-making bonanza. It seems our next adventure is heading back to Sigatoka to find some thread!
Visiting schools in other countries has been a real eye-opener. Seeing the favelas in Rio, the boats taking children to school in the Amazon, where the teachers are also village midwives, the Uros Islands making the most of the reeds, and now these colourful tin huts in Fiji, is really giving us time to reflect on our experiences in education. The UKs rules and regulations are like a giant anchor, dragging too many kids down and turning so many teachers into strict rule-enforcers rather than interesting and interested educators. Here we've seen buses full of laughing, joyful kids shouting and waving to us from the windows. This natural sociability and curiosity would be stifled in England, seen as bad behaviour. All these children are out here learning and having FUN! In countries where families are facing so much hardship, there just seems to be so much more natural joy emanating from the children out here. On the flipside, although our personal experience hasn’t been great with the support provided for our own children, these places do highlight how much we have access to in comparison. I’m not quite ready to shake off the feeling of being let down over the last three years but it’s always helpful gaining new perspectives. All good food for thought for us out here on this journey..
Let me just throw in a little lighter tidbit here to keep our family travel tales as real as they get: Fin wrapped up our school visit with a dramatic tantrum after Dan decided to hand over his frisbee to the boys they’d been playing with. Now, this frisbee had seen more action as a dust collector than a flying object since we left home, so it’s about as special to Fin as a paper plate. Looks like he needs a crash course in that legendary Fijian generosity! The sweet schoolkids noticed his waterworks and kindly returned the frisbee to him where he was sulking in the back of the car. Talk about a generosity fail! Nevermind the school work, I think we have more important work to do with Fin just now!
Before it all went wrong!
We've had a few more fabulously lazy beach days here in paradise, all pictures bundled together above, and then thought we'd go all out and book our first scuba diving lesson. I mean, we're in Fiji and heading on to some amazing places, it's something we all like the idea of experiencing so why not give it a shot? I’m trying to step out of my comfort zone and set a good example for the kids although my nerves are palpable. Unfortunately, as we fill out the paperwork, we discover that Fin is too young, and Phoebe's out of luck because she had an appendectomy during the summer holidays and needs a full clear year or a doctor's note to dive. Without either, they have to cheer us on from the sidelines. Thankfully, the dive school is conveniently located at a resort, so those two are living it up in style!
The rest of us all eagerly gear up for our pool session. It's quite difficult, juggling all the stuff to remember, strapping on tons of gear, mastering our breathing, decoding hand signals like we're in an underwater charades game, and keeping an eye on oxygen levels. But amazingly, to everyone's shock, we all nail it and, more importantly, really enjoy the pool session. We all feel ready to take our skills to the next level out at sea!
As I wobbled, feeling uncertain on the 'rusty bus' on the way to the boat, there was Floss, my personal life coach buzzing in my ear with her epic YOLO vibes: "Mummy, you're only in Fiji this once! This is our one shot to do this together for the first time. If it turns out to be a disaster, you'll never have to do it again." With a barrage of positivity like that, how could I not at least give it a go?
As we venture out, our instructor, Finn, casually mentions that we'll be doing the ol' backwards flop off the boat into the sea. I chuckled, thinking he was joking, assuming this was only what seasoned dive masters do, but no, he was completely serious! First challenge ahead. Dan goes first and nails it effortlessly of course. Next up is poor Pops and I can tell it's a lot for her. She's grappling with the weight of the gear, the flippers, and everything she has to remember. I know that once she hits the water, it'll all become easier, but she's struggling to position herself on the edge of the boat. After three tries and a few tears, she's giving it her all. With the resilience of a superhero, she finally does it - off she goes, backwards into the dazzling blue! I'm up next, and there's no way I can back out after she's just powered through that. So, with a frantic glance around for any lurking sharks, in I plunge! Meanwhile, Floss is having the time of her life, diving right in and ready to embrace whatever comes her way.
Pops is off with the instructor we've been paired with, Watson, and I can see he's doing his best to make her feel at ease. Dan and Floss are still with Finn and they're revisiting the basics of how to descend to the ocean floor using the mooring rope we've attached the boat to. I'm on a mission to join Pops and Watson, who are a couple of metres down by this point, while also keeping an eye on Floss and Dan, while also trying to remember everything we've learned, all while popping my ears every couple of seconds as I descend.
I keep seeing Pops signalling the 'problem' and 'up' signs we've been learning, indicating she wants to return to the surface. Meanwhile, her instructor seems to be doing his best to become a human anchor, trying to keep her calm and keep her descending. I keep popping back up to sea level, trying to catch my breath and calm my thoughts, all while eager to get back down to Pops. Finn is visibly getting more and more frustrated with my yo-yo act near the boat, along with Dan and Floss, who are also bobbing up with ear issues, worried we might get injured by the boat in the waves. I keep taking the breathing mask off, which he really doesn't appreciate, trying to calm my breath, but as I swallow another gallon of sea water, I realise it's best to keep it on and focus on my breathing with it securely in place.
Does it sound hectic yet? Because it really was hectic at this point!
I'm feeling fine in my body - unlike Floss and Dan who are still grappling with their ears - I'm just stressing like crazy about Pops. I spot her giving the 'up' signal again and I'm really feeling the pressure now. It's really challenging not being able to communicate with your voice and I'm worried now she might be crying underwater. I manage to stay down this time and get down to her and Watson, who are between four and five metres deep at this point, just as she's signalling to come up again. This time, I enthusiastically signal it alongside her, and we all swim up to the surface. She's really overwhelmed and her ears are hurting her - it has been too much and she just wants to get back on the boat. Happily playing chauffeur, I get out with her and wrap her in big, wet hugs onboard.
Dan and Floss are both still eagerly persisting in the water, excited to dive down and discover the wonders waiting for them. After a few more minutes, they also find themselves climbing in at the back of the boat - Dan's ears just aren't adjusting, and the pressure is too painful. Finn advises that it's definitely not wise to push through, reminding everyone that diving should be a blast. If we're not having fun, then why are we doing it? It's time to head back to shore.
In total, we splashed around in there for about half an hour, Poppy getting down to about five metres and the rest of us between three and four, and that's an incredible triumph if you ask me! I'm bursting with pride for all of us - it was a massive challenge for each of us for various reasons, but we all did it and gave it our best. Fingers crossed it hasn't put us all off and this is just the beginning, next time with Phoebe in tow too..
In another chat with Vanshika, she shared the challenges they face in their life here. With family disappointment after the birth of their daughter, family relations are strained on Papu's side, and they no longer speak. Following the age-old tradition of Indo-Fijians, when a daughter marries, she leaves her family's community to embrace her husband's. Sticking to these customs with pride, they built a wall across Papu's bedroom in his father's home and, step by step, expanded it into a living room, bedroom and kitchen with a small inside shower too.
Our new friends invited us to their home and introduced us to their daughter, Rihana. Their home, attached to the father's, is built with breeze blocks, tin, chicken wire and an abundance of love. These people may have modest means compared to UK standards, but they have made a beautiful home and their love for each other and their family unit is clear. The kids were having fun colouring and playing with toy animals together, Phoebe and Floss crafting bracelets for Rihana. Dan and Papu sat out in their porch, chatting about building, with Papu’s view to extend further to give Rhiana a separate bedroom. Vanshika fuelled us all with drinks and biscuits. It was just so lovely for them to welcome us into their family home, a memory we'll never forget. I'm honestly in awe of this woman. Can you imagine living next door to in-laws who have disowned your daughter and family? She just radiates love and calm, letting everything simply wash over her.
It's all about genuine friendship here in Fiji - pure and simple! Honestly, every single person we've met has been so ridiculously friendly. Not only do they greet everyone with a cheerful "Bula!", but they dive into conversations to truly get to know each other. And they do it all expecting nothing in return. It's just in their DNA to be naturally warm, friendly and welcoming, with community and family at the heart of what they do.
Our final day here has arrived and, as promised last week, the girls are heading back to the kindergarten with their bracelets and extra thread in tow. With the academic year winding down, the school buzzes with a relaxed and happy vibe, the kids practising for their end of term graduation in two days time. We are invited to join them but sadly our flight leaves tomorrow. The girls dive right in, playing, crafting bracelets and simply enjoying time with all the kids. We leave with everyone adorned in colourful bracelets, anklets and necklaces and we even have our own matching ones to keep a lasting piece of this wonderful memory.
On our last day, Papu and Dan have planned a treat for us — a lovo! This traditional Fijian cooking method uses hot stones from the river underground, and it's typically reserved for special occasions in Fijian villages. What better way to celebrate our last night than with this? The lovo perfectly captures the Fijian spirit of sharing, where everyone — families and friends — contribute ingredients and help with the preparation. We bring the meat, and Papu provides the fish. We add pumpkin and potatoes, and Vanshika prepares everything to perfection with her herbs, spices, and coconut milk. They bring their homegrown spinach, and we grab a can of corned mutton to make little parcels. Traditionally, the men handle most of the labour, and Papu didn't disappoint. Even a tropical rainstorm couldn't dampen our spirits, though it did mean fewer hands on deck to help out!
Once the stones are sizzling hot, they're blanketed with palm leaves before the feast is added in layers. We kick off with the potatoes and cassava, then the meats and fish, all crowned with the pumpkins, spinach and breadfruit. More palm leaves are added to seal in the flavours before everything is buried under soil, transforming into a meal over three hours.
Once everything was cooked to perfection, Vanshika laid it out buffet style. The smoky, slow-cooked goodness made the meat so tender and the vegetables were bursting with flavour and goodness, all just delicious, the pictures are not going to do it justice! We invited Vanshika, Papu and Rihana to join us for the feast, but since they have the fun task of coming back here to check us out at 4am tomorrow morning, they unsurprisingly declined and took their share home to enjoy and relax instead. This amazing meal was the perfect finishing touch to our wonderful stay here.
You know you've definitely inherited the Fijian spirit when a rainstorm brings out nothing but pure joy and happy vibes!
So, Fiji, our little slice of paradise, has given us so much more than we ever imagined! Out of all the places we've visited so far, this one has snagged the largest chunk of our hearts and is refusing to give it back! The real magic of this island isn't just the palm trees, crystal-clear waters, turquoise sea, or white sands…
…Nope, it's the people who call this place home that truly make it paradise.