Nusa Lembongan - Gili Air - Bali

We pack up our things once again and wave goodbye to Bali to warmly welcome Nusa Lembongan, just a quick half-hour ferry ride from Sanur. Frustratingly, my phone got soaked on the Jimbaran beach clean day, courtesy of the Bali wet season, rendering the camera (and lots of other apps) unusable. This is an absolute tragedy as this island is a complete picture-perfect insta-worthy paradise - especially as we've been greeted by our first real sunshine since arriving in Indonesia!

Nusa Lembongan is one of three tiny islands southeast of Bali known as the Nusa Islands, part of the Lesser Sunda Islands in Indonesia (who knew? I thought it was part of Bali.) Ben recommended this gem when we met him in Byron Bay, and it’s been on our must-visit list ever since. We found an amazing Airbnb/homestay. It's definitely a bit rustic, with an unusual smell rendering one of the rooms out of action, but with a gate that swings open to reveal the most beautiful view of the sea and all the charming traditional Indonesian fishing boats, it's pure magic. We’re more than happy to call it home for the next three nights.

Poppy's first mission was to find the floating pontoon that Harry had raved about over our Sanur lunch. This place has two jump platforms and she was obviously itching to leap off them both! We found a paddleboard rental at one of the other 'shacks' just along from our Airbnb and hired two paddleboards and a kayak to share between us all to make our way over. This place was so much more than just a jump spot - it was the ultimate chill bar. 360 degree views of crystal-clear water, cool tunes playing, cocktails flowing and floating beanbags for maximum relaxation. It was the perfect spot to spend a couple of blissful hours, swimming, jumping, snorkelling and relaxing. And to top it all off, we had a playful pug on board to keep us entertained! We returned just as the sun was setting, and the only thing left to do was choose which beachside restaurant to dine at. Total first day bliss!

We arrange a snorkelling trip for the next morning, where we've planned to meet the captain of the 'jukung' - the Indonesian traditional boat - at 8.30am. The trip covers three spots around the Nusa Islands - Mangrove Point on Nusa Lembongan, Crystal Bay between Nusa Cenigan and Nusa Penida, and the grand finale at Manta Bay on Nusa Penida. As with all these types of activities, you're hyped about what you might see, but there's always that little voice in your head saying, "Don't get your hopes up for a selfie with a mermaid!"

We kick off our day by fueling up with delicious nasi goreng for breakfast and meet our captain, Padi, at 8.30am as planned. As I've mentioned before, Fin and I have always found snorkeling challenging, feeling a wave of panic with our faces submerged and surrounded by marine life. But, as I've also mentioned, I'm on a mission to conquer this fear for both of us by the end of this trip! And what better place to start than the crystal-clear waters at Mangrove Point - you couldn't not jump in here. The girls and Dan were off before the boat had even anchored, and I managed to encourage Fin to join in with the extra security of a life jacket. We absolutely LOVED it! It was like swimming in a real-life aquarium, and we both really relaxed into the experience. It was a huge triumph! Just as we were all back on board, with only Floss still in the water playfully circling the legs of the jukung, she suddenly burst out screaming, “Oh my God, is that a turtle?!” Snorkel on and face back in the water, she started swimming alongside the turtle, with her sisters and Dan excitedly jumping in to join her. Their day was officially off the charts and absolutely made at this moment. Honestly, the water couldn't have been more perfect for them to experience this.

We continued on to Crystal Bay for another dip in the aquarium, boosting Fin's confidence again. Then we headed to Manta Bay, and with a quick swoop around, we discovered there were no manta rays there today. Padi informed us they hadn't been seen for a couple of weeks. We carried on around to Manta Point where another captain was waving us over, signalling there was a manta in the water! With no time to lose, we all leaped off the boat - Fin not ready to push himself too far yet and stayed firmly on board this time - and the five of us swam alongside the manta ray! It was absolutely enormous, graceful, yet astonishingly quick gliding through the water. It swooshed alongside us with its mouth wide open, completely carefree. We all clambered back on board, feeling on top of the world, out of breath having not had time to put our flippers on, and incredibly, incredibly lucky.

We were all sitting there in disbelief, trying to calm our hyperventilating selves, when Padi suddenly fires up the engine and zooms towards the other side of the bay where there's been another sighting. He moors up again, and we all - minus Fin again - leap back into the water. This time, we’re greeted by two stunning mantas gliding side by side, heading straight towards us! It's pretty nerve-wracking to see something the size of a double bed coming at you with its mouth wide open, but witnessing the sheer elegance and grace of these creatures is absolutely incredible! This day has far exceeded our expectations - three rays and a turtle, along with all the other beautiful fish and coral. Definitely not what we were expecting to tick off our bingo card for the day!

The next day, Dan was itching to explore the Gala Gala Underground House, a massive five hundred square metre home carved into the earth. Legend has it that the builder, Mada Byasa, was so inspired by a religious tale called ‘Wana Parwa’ that he decided to construct his own home using just a chisel. He started this project in 1961 and finally completed in 1976 - 15 years of digging! Talk about commitment and determination! The house is a real maze, featuring seven exits, three ventilation shafts, a well, two kitchens, a sitting room, and two bedrooms, all squeezed into rooms just 1 to 2 metres high, a true labyrinth. It might not have been for me or Floss, who quickly made our way out, but Dan was having the time of his life exploring down there! I wonder what side project he'll start when we get home!

The rest of our time on Lembongan was an absolute perfect mix of sunshine and paradise. I won't dive into every detail as you'll all start hating me, reading from a cold UK, and never read the blog again! But just picture more creamy turquoise seas, paddleboarding, fishing, epic jumps, relaxed cocktails and evenings watching the sunset on the beach.. just pure quality family-time bliss.

Just as the weather changed, it was time for us to leave and head to Gili. I didn't realise Gili is actually a part of Lombok, having lumped it all together again with Bali. Stepping off the ferry onto the island is like entering an entirely new world again. Its less than two square kilometres in area and with a circumference of just under five kilometres. The island is completely free of motorised vehicles, with only electric scooters and horse-drawn carts allowed. As we hopped off the ferry with our backpacks, we were warmly greeted by the horse and cart 'taxi rank', so we all piled into two of them to distribute the load and headed to our Airbnb.

One of the biggest changes we encountered was the shift in culture and religion. While Bali and Nusa Lembongan are vibrant Hindu communities, complete with family temples and the offerings everywhere, we realise we are now on a predominantly Muslim island. As we were settling into the Airbnb, with everyone deciding who would claim each bed, we were suddenly serenaded by the Call to Prayer. It ended up being the soundtrack to our stay here, echoing through the air five times a day. Our time already in Indonesia has been like a crash course in religious diversity, picking up knowledge as we live among these different faiths, and then diving deeper into whatever aspect of it sparks our curiosity during our more "official" learning sessions.

Our two night stay on Gili, meaning just one full day, was far too short! As the sun decided to hide, we skipped the snorkel trip around the three islands (next time!) and did what any sensible parents would do: acted like locals and rented three electric scooters for a day of island shenanigans. Dan and Poppy wobbled on one, Fin and I zigzagged on another, while Phoebe and Floss laughed their way around on the third. It was a blast, blending into the island vibe like we were born here, discovering every street, beach, nook and cranny we could find. By the end of the day, they were true islanders - all four of them piled onto one bike at one point! They absolutely loved it and we were all reluctant to leave the next day. The tranquility without the noise or speed of motorised vehicles is absolutely lovely.

Honestly, the only soundtrack here is the merry jingle-jangle of bells on the horses and the clip-clop of their hooves as they trot around with their carts, making their way around the island like it's a never-ending parade. I was curious to dig deeper into this horse-powered way of life and found out that the Gili Islands are unique in Indonesia and one of just five islands worldwide where the law says, "Neigh" to motorised vehicles and gives a big "Yay" to horse-drawn carts. These rules keep the islands' charm but I was interested to learn more about the welfare of the animals, especially after conversations we both had with our friends Vix and Jambo - they travelled here years ago and shared their experience of seeing the horses looking thin and emaciated.

Thankfully, we found out about a fantastic charity that has been established for the horses of Gili by an inspiring American lady named Tori Taylor, after moving to the Gili Islands from the USA and seeing how some of the horses were being kept - it seems our friends’ experience wasn’t wrong. The charity has been going since 2015 and aims to preserve local culture while enhancing the lives, quality of care, and working conditions for the horses and ponies. They are dedicated to upholding animal welfare and promoting responsible ownership. They operate a sanctuary and veterinary clinic and provide free veterinary services across all three Gili Islands. What an incredible achievement, supported by the Gili Eco Trust and the Jakarta Animal Aid Network too.

We reached out to the charity to discover more information and we were thrilled to learn they would be at the ferry dock on our departure morning, running the clinic from 10am. Since our ferry wasn't leaving until 11am, we had the perfect opportunity to witness the clinic in full swing and chat with one of the enthusiastic volunteers. It was a whirlwind of activity! Horses everywhere, their owners, dedicated charity workers, volunteers, and curious people like us all bustling about. So much advice, education, supplements, and treatments were being shared. It was an amazing experience to observe, and yet another inspiring example of how the kids could volunteer or make a difference anywhere in the world in their futures.

We could have explored these islands for much, much longer, and definitely missed out on visiting the Komodo Islands (next time, dragons!), but we had to make our way back to Sanur. Frustratingly, I realised when we first landed in Bali back in December, that I'd left my rheumatoid arthritis medication in the fridge at our hotel in Sydney. After an epic saga involving Australian customs, multiple trips to Australia Post by my cousin Luke, and an urgent prescription letter thankfully arriving from Portsmouth NHS Hospital late on New Year's Eve, we finally got the meds out of Oz and on route to Imogen's house in Sanur. But there's another twist at Denpasar customs as they won't release them without further payment. We managed to get our trusty driver Agung pick us up and take us to the Denpasar customs office. With just a few thousand rupiah, the situation was resolved, and I finally had the medication back in my hands nearly a month later. What a relief!

Returning to Bali was actually perfect, especially because we finally got to explore Batuan Village, renowned for its art and handicrafts. This is a place where artists have historically come to to create artwork depicting their rich culture, gods, goddesses, dancers and historical narratives. Wonderful Agung came to pick us up again (seriously, is there anyone nicer in the world than a Bali driver?) and took us to his favourite place - an old workshop, complete with temple of course, where artists were busy creating their work. It was like stepping into a living art gallery with various different buildings housing different themes and styles of artwork. Dan and I loved looking at all the different paintings and styles (the kids less so - can you tell by Fin's face?). We couldn't resist buying a piece that captured our hearts: a painting of Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of knowledge, education, and learning. It felt like the perfect souvenir for this unforgettable adventure we're on.

Agung suggests a pit stop at the Bali reptile park on our way back. Poppy is over the moon because she's been dreaming of having a pet snake for years. As soon as we arrive, we all get the chance to hold a massive python and an iguana. The kids absolutely love it, I'm thrilled to be the photographer, and Fin is ecstatic just touching the iguanas tail! A guide takes us on a tour of the park, telling us fascinating details about each resident. It's all actually very interesting - and a tad terrifying since most of the venomous snakes he's telling us about are found in Sumatra - a place we're heading to soon!

We can’t help wondering how we'll manage without our amazing sidekick, Agung, when we leave! He's been an absolute legend on this trip, driving us around for miles and always keeping a smile on his face, even while listening to the endless sibling squabbles!

Safely back again in Sanur to enjoy our final days here. We love the town's vibe and can totally understand why Imogen and Harry have chosen to call this place home. Returning here gave us the perfect opportunity to hang out with them (Ralph) again, nosey around their home, and stroll through the charming rice paddy near their house. It was a bit like the riverside walk in Liss, just with a few hundred mopeds zooming past every minute! Sanur might not be the paradise you get on the neighbouring islands, but it has it's own unique charm, created by its strong Balinese culture, with a little comfortable mix of Western added in. Yes it's rustic, there’s rubbish bags out in the roads, questionable building work, uneven pavements, stray dogs, and a definite amount of seasonal flooding! But as always, the real magic lies in the people who live here. We loved the community, the families, and their wonderful way of treating children. The simplicity and appreciation for the natural things in life are truly inspiring.

Meanwhile, we better come up with a new plan to snag a half-hour of peace — Fin’s getting way too relaxed with the spa scene in Sanur. I mean, who can say no to a foot massage? Certainly not a seven-year-old! Definitely time to move on!